rotted stringer worse than last time

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by nealpellecchia, May 26, 2015.

  1. nealpellecchia
    Joined: May 2015
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    Location: visalia, ca.

    nealpellecchia New Member

    1971 fiberform san juan 21ft. rainwater by windshield I think. pulled up floor rot has eaten almost all of it out except stops before transom and steering station. I think because that's where the water sat. But good, less for me to dig out. Shop vaced it out, and now that I study it real close 2x6's do not slip all the way down into the hull groove like I thought. Production quicky built? I scabed a board on to what was good 20 yrs. ago and made a compartment out of it. But tilted trailer space had water sitting there so I knew it was coming. I got pictures. Well, 'Im lookin to do a quicky too. 21 ft. boat 6ft across approx. with 2 main stringers good. It's the middle to the edge stringer with an angle into the hull that is bad. By angel I mean where the hull makes a 90 degree edge. My question is shouldn't the main stringers and the edge of the boat be enough to handle the stress, along with the groove built into the hull as strength? and just find a way to support the floor?7149151364
     
  2. Grey Ghost
    Joined: Aug 2012
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    Location: california

    Grey Ghost Senior Member

    Two questions. How thick is the fiberglass around your stringers and when did you replace it last time??
     
  3. nealpellecchia
    Joined: May 2015
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    Location: visalia, ca.

    nealpellecchia New Member

    very thin. nothing on the top. may have been done even once before me. I notice that the holes in a side trim panel had been re drilled about an inch to re attach and then more for when I did it. I did not glass it. 20 yrs. ago. inspector missed it. Good news is that it ain't into the transom. This stringer is less than a foot from the main stringer,[ one of two around the gas tank], the hull as I say dips about three or four inches as part of the v hull design. It must act like a structural element even without boards in there that as I mentioned don't go in real tight to the bottom.Rigid verticle glass is very strong. I got to pieces of a old swedish futon laying over it all so I can use the boat, keep air circulating, and keep an eye on it. Futon has slats spaced and very strong thanks to those sweeds. Again the main stringers are 2x8's or bigger. and the "draft", side of the boat. must be very strong to resist bending the hull. Boat has a list due to removal of material and shifting of structure.
     
  4. rwatson
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Tasmania,Australia

    rwatson Senior Member

    You don't say if the "Fibreglass" is Epoxy or Polyester based.

    Polyester is NOT waterproof- even at large thicknesses. Epoxy is.

    It will make all the difference.
     
  5. nealpellecchia
    Joined: May 2015
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    Location: visalia, ca.

    nealpellecchia New Member

    i used epoxy.

    original 1971, what is it. nothing on top boards almost all gone. they'll slip right in and big glass cloth over top to hull. too much will make next time more difficult. no next time...
     

  6. rwatson
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Tasmania,Australia

    rwatson Senior Member

    In 1971 - you would have to bet it is Polyester. You can tell by the smell. Drill or sand a bit and see if it has that fibreglass stink.

    If you use epoxy, and do a good coverage, your problems are over.
     
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