Rivet replacement

Discussion in 'Metal Boat Building' started by Lampy08, Sep 8, 2010.

  1. Lampy08
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: west coast canada

    Lampy08 Junior Member

    I was recently given an old riveted aluminium 16” Lund that was used hard by some loggers. She leaks quite a bit from several rivets and I’m hoping to get some advice about replacing them. Obviously I need to drill them out and put in over sized ones but are there any tricks or short cuts that would help?
    Also part of the reason the rivets worked loose is that the ribs have stress crack in the “V” . I’m thinking about putting some floors in and laying some plywood over them to help reduce the flexing any suggestions about that would help too.


    Dennis
     
  2. wardd
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    wardd Senior Member

    are they solid rivets or mechanically locking rivets with a pin in the middle?

    if solid center punch the head in the middle and use a drill the same diameter as the rivet and drill through the head only then use a drift pin to push the remainder out of the rivet hole

    an automatic center punch is handy

    if with a pin, try to use a drift pin to push the pin out or down and drill as above
     
  3. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    You can use a backing iron and a ball peen hammer to reset the rivets
     
  4. Lampy08
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: west coast canada

    Lampy08 Junior Member

    ok this brings up two questions:
    Wardd, Is there a water tight mechanicly locking rivet (pop rivet) available for home shop type tools?
    Gonzo, are you sugesting tha I mearly tighten the existing rivet? Would that work? It would save a lot of time

    Dennis
     
  5. wardd
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    wardd Senior Member

    http://www.alcoa.com/global/en/products/product.asp?prod_id=804

    but special rivet setters may be needed

    resetting may work but the holes may be oblong and or over size from vibration and wear and may loosen up again


    my knowledge of riveting is from aviation and boats may have different wear characteristics

    but removing the rivets will give you the chance to examine the holes for radial cracking and thinning of the metal under the rivet head
     
  6. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Small boats are not as critical as airplanes. I have fixed a really bad boat, used for commercial crabbing, with a laminate of penetrating epoxy and 12oz cloth.
     
  7. Lampy08
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: west coast canada

    Lampy08 Junior Member

    Some one tried epoxy and glass on it before and it is peeling off, nearly all peeled off really. I was looking at it a little closer this morning some of the rivets I can wiggle with just one finger. I think drilling out and replacing is best option. Now I have to find some stock to make rivet out of, or rivets for sale. Thanks for all your help folks.

    Dennis
     
  8. wardd
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    wardd Senior Member

    go to a small airport and ask where you can get what you need
     
  9. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    alan white Senior Member

    What I say too. Use a friend to buck the other side. Something about three pounds to buck them, like a sledge hammer head.
     
  10. wardd
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    wardd Senior Member

    rivet guns and rivet sets and bucking bars don't cost much

    an air hammer about $50 and set less than $10

    and a round piece if 1" bar 6" long
     

  11. welderbob
    Joined: Nov 2009
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    Location: Holbrook NY

    welderbob Junior Member

    Mc Master=Carr sells rivets and setting tools
     
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