Ressurected old bottom paint with liquid methylene chloride and gasoline

The second coat is going on.
I did find in one batch I may not have mixed it well enough the linseed oil. On one small part of the boat, the paint is sludgy taking longer to dry. Thankfully it it is a small area. I figure eventually boiled linseed oil will dry. I used my fingers and spread the sludgy paint thinner in that spot.

I also cut back to 1.5 cups per gallon. It looks good on the hull.

I will post some pics in a few days. It definitely is an ablative type of paint surface that I have.

 

Have 2 coats bottom paint on the hull now.
All of it is drying up fine even the sludgy stuff.
Linseed oil takes a while to dry.

 

I have good news, the paint is working, there is nothing growing yet since Oct 2014.

The blue painted rubber hose is full of growth. So that was a good control test.

 

It looks good. I am glad you didn't blow yourself up stirring gasoline with a power tool.

 

The proof of the pudding will be seeing what happened to the gel coat. The reconstituted soup should keep some of the methylene chloride from flashing off for some time just like the jelly they add when they make paint remover.

Dino

 

I used precautions.
I took a flat piece of cardboard, punched a small hole in the center. That covered the bucket while I used the power drill. The drill was also pretty high up from the bucket.

 

Sounds like a good way to get emphysema ! I have never heard of mixing petrol into paint, but paint stripper as well ? Seems like something is bound to go wrong.

 

Both are just solvents that flash off into the air quickly.
I added some boiled linseed oil back into the remixed paint. When oil paints harden up, the binders may be destroyed. So adding in some linseed oil put a binder back in. The MC and E10 gas together are great solvents, they completely redissolve oil paint.

Even without the added linseed oil, the paint dried soft but not flakey. It stuck good to the paint stirrer.

 

Terebene is a drier that used to be added to linseed oil to make it dry faster, and also makes the paint harder.

 

Being an ablative type and also poisonous paint, I was a little worried about adding too much linseed oil and making it too hard. But it just worked ok with the amount I used. I did notice it took 2 weeks to really dry up on the hull in some thick spots that had more linseed oil added, takes time to set. Before it fully sets, it is somewhat greasy. And those spots I put in more linseed oil, it all dried eventually.

I did get some crazing cracking lines on some spots after it dried, but that did not affect the way the paint functions. Does anyone think I should have added more linseed oil?

 

Congratulations on your witch's brew. A little crazing doesn't matter, this is not a race boat.

 

Looks great. I'd suggest a fan to blow away vapours next time.
A friend did something similar to this in his garage a few years ago-hair singed and one of the windows was cracked.

 

Wow explosion, well yeah I did this outside so fumes don't build up.
Certainly could blow a fan at the mixing pail. I used a 5 gallon bucket.

 

Yeah booms are very common amongst drug lab guys and hash oil makers,their solvent's vapours are heavier than air.
They hit the pilot light for water heaters or furnaces, thermostats,light switches and there goes the windows and often walls/ceiling.

 

Surprised it worked out so well. Congrats. And thanks for showing it worked.