glassing ???

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by timbecht, May 30, 2012.

  1. timbecht
    Joined: May 2011
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    Location: indiana

    timbecht Junior Member

    well my boat is bout done and i have to figure out the glassing procedure
    this is the way i would like to do it
    1 glass tape all seams with epoxy of course
    2 a couple of weeks later do outside of hull with either just epoxy or with glass and epoxy
    3 a week or so later start prime and paint

    so my ? is can i do it in that order or should i wait till i have all of the epoxy and glass and do it all at once
    if i can do it in the order i wroet above any steps i left out
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If you have a taped seam build, encapsulation is the only practical course. Just an epoxy coating on the outside, doesn't offer any real protection. Fabrics and other reinforcement materials, is where you'll improve an epoxy sheathing.

    In a perfect world, you'd do everything at once, but few can do this without a production line setup and crew.

    Once you tape the seams, fair the hull and also get it smooth. The better a job you do, the easier the fabric sheathing process will be. Next is the sheathing (cloth), which will also need to be filled, faired and smoothed, but if you did a good job before the cloth went down, you'll have much less to do under paint. Lastly, drag the hull out into the sun and let it bake for a few days, maybe even placing a black tarp over it so you can "cook" the epoxy and help stave off print through. Now she's ready for paint.
     
  3. Tungsten
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    what about the fillet on the inside?? when i did my first boat i had a hard time with sagging of the fillet so i ended up having to sand it what a ***** that was.on my next boat i'm gonna let the fillet tack up a bit then apply presoaked tape over so all in one step.this should keep the sags away and no more sanding!
    the outside i did just like you listed but make sure you round off the chines.
     
  4. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    To control sagging remain young or use more silica to stiffen up the viscosity. Mixed to a peanut butter consistency, it will not sag.
     
  5. cthippo
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    cthippo Senior Member

    Not sure what brand of epoxy you're using, but System 3 makes a dedicated 2 part filleting compound. you mix the two pastes together in a 2-1 ratio and the resulting stuff isn't going anywhere while it hardens.

    You might be able to mix your own cheaper, but it's hard to get much easier to use than this stuff!
     
  6. timbecht
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    timbecht Junior Member

    well i know about the filleting i am more intrested in the steps i wrote for the outside wether i can do it in that order or not
     
  7. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Any order you want will do, just do it properly.
     
  8. Tungsten
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    Tungsten Senior Member

    ya crazy $ up here for the sys.3 fillet.at the time all i had was wood flour and it sagged as it cured.i did some tests of really thick wood flour mix and i found it to be brittle, so no more saw dust for this guy.
     
  9. LP
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    LP Flying Boatman

    The key to sagless fillets is proper consistency, regardless of the filler. I like wood flour as a general, all around filler with it's inherent wood tones. There are other more technically specific fillers to be used in specific applications. I'm considering the used of silica as an additive to my wood flours for added strength.

    Taping as you fillet is a good way to go, IMHO. I like the way the tape imbeds itself into the fillet and also helps to support and define the fillet as it cures. Others on this forum use vinyl sheeting as kind of a peel ply over their fillets. Purchased at Walmart, I think. Once the fillet kicks, you peel the vinyl off and you have a nice smooth fillet ready for tape. I've not tried it yet, though I have my eyes "peeled" for the vinyl at Wally World. :D

    Good luck on your project. Any method that reduces sanding on epoxy and glass is worth looking into.
     
  10. rwatson
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    rwatson Senior Member

    Wood flour isnt there to do anything but provide a compression layer, you cant rely on it to be a structural addition - it has to be taped over.

    If it sagged, you didn't mix it thick enough.
     

  11. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Almost every "reinforcement" mixture (filler) used with epoxy, will have multiple materials in it. Typically, you'll employ one agent to provide the bulk of the physical property alterations desired (harder, stiffer, more compression strength, etc.) and another to control viscosity. Using just wood flour or just balloons or just silica will not make a good fillet. Each material does something, so select the material that does what you want. Lastly, silica's best use is to control viscosity. A splash of silica can take a mixture from runny to peanut butter in a minute. This is why West offers the various filler types (400 series) and their site can help you make the choices necessary. It's a rare mixture that doesn't have some amount of silica in it for this reason.
     
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