Requesting Small Sternwheeler hull design and analysis help

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by phrogjlf@yahoo, Nov 18, 2014.

  1. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member



    no problem, now is good.

    About the boat: I understand your idea, also about pilot hause and cabin, but before have to think about hull.
    need to know the weight of the wheel, trasmission, and engin, because your boat, even 24 feet, will be lighter than a traditonal same misure, so the distribution of the volume of the hull is essential
     
  2. phrogjlf@yahoo
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    phrogjlf@yahoo JL Frusha

    I'll have a better idea after working with and on the model. I figure to at least try to get as much to scale as I can. Once I have dimensions and know what I'm going to use, I'll be able to better estimate the weight.

    Nice thing about electric is ballasting with the batteries, to keep her level.

    Here's my current rendering, in MS Paint. I know, MS Paint sucks. It's the one I can use.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

  4. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

    Design length : 24.000 [ft]
    Length over all : 24.000 [ft]
    Design beam : 8.000 [ft]
    Beam over all : 8.000 [ft]
    Design draft : 0.800 [ft]



    Volume properties:
    Displaced volume : 35.241 [ft3]
    Displacement : 1.007 [tons]
     
  5. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

    this V bottom is a little bit 'tortured', but is easy to built it with more plywood boards in ranges
     
  6. phrogjlf@yahoo
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    phrogjlf@yahoo JL Frusha

    Looks good. I like the V all the way to the edge, much better. Getting mired is my biggest fear, with this muck.

    What program are you using? I can import to either DELFTSHIP, or FreeShip. With a starting point, like this hull, I may be able to figure out how to draw the cabin.
     
  7. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

    free ship
    but for import plan of free ship must have the professional program

    if you like those designs i can insert the exactly principal misure

    of course i need some time, coz i'm here only in free time.
     
  8. phrogjlf@yahoo
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    phrogjlf@yahoo JL Frusha

    I've been able to open other fbm files with it, and make changes. I'll see what I can do, there, first, but attach the file and see if I can get to it.
     
  9. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

    the one above was a quick drawing,
    now I have better defined the lines

    I prefer to send here the measures, instead the file



    tavola.jpg
     
  10. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

  11. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

  12. WindRaf
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    WindRaf Senior Member

  13. phrogjlf@yahoo
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    phrogjlf@yahoo JL Frusha

    I can put one of the electric conversion lower units on the centerline, in the flat spot, forward of the transom, then, when I get them made, the wiggle drives (an experimenters' term, where I got the idea, not mine) will be centered about 26 in. out from the centerline, on a flat deck, there, above the flat part of the transom. Should be able to have the motor shaft point forward, the reduction gear unit up, mounted to a bulkhead, take-off shaft points aft, back over its' motor.

    Rotary to recip something like this...

    [​IMG]
     
  14. phrogjlf@yahoo
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    phrogjlf@yahoo JL Frusha

    Similar mechanism, this from an old model airplane engine...

    [​IMG]

    By replacing all 3 moving joints with CV joints, 2-fixed, 1 plunging, I can use sturdy, readily available, low-friction connections, in this one.

    By using 2-fixed and 2-plunging CV joints, in the 2-cylinder version, I can do the same thing, with one motor, to drive 2 shafts, one to either side of the paddlewheel.

    With 2, like this, per wheel, I could maintain the original 90* paddlewheel crank offset, by merely setting them appropriately, since they will be driven from the rotary end, rather than pistons driving the reciprocating end.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014

  15. Rurudyne
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    Rurudyne Senior Member

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