Removing damper plate on Volvo Penta 2010

Discussion in 'Diesel Engines' started by Runhammar, May 28, 2024.

  1. Runhammar
    Joined: Jul 2020
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    Location: Stockholm

    Runhammar Junior Member

    Would be gratefull for some enlightenment on the following:

    I am inspecting a penta 2010 from 2006 that has had water inmersion in the flywheel area. I have taken off the bell housing and am now looking at flywheel and infront of it, or inside it, the so called damper plate. I have found six screws (allen head) that I have taken off, that seem to hold the inner part of the damper plate to the flywheel, but the damper plate is still not comming off. On my engine the flywheel, and all the rest of the engine, is electrically isolated from the gearbox, so if I understand it correctly the damper plate consists of two parts, one bolted to the flywheel and the other held on to it with rubber fastenings. I can move the outer part sligtly side to side, and feel that it is held by rubber.
    What I don't understand is why the damper plate, with its two parts, does not come off after I have removed the six bolts/screws and I am thinking it might have been "welded" to the flywheel from the corrosion caused by the water (brackish, not salt water, but still).
    Should I heat it (or will that damage the rubber?) and spray it with penetrating oil?
    And secondly, a bit more embarrasing: For a while I supposed that the outer part of the damper plate could be pulled out and I spent some time prying on it with a screwdriver. This pulled it out slightly, but it was being pulled in by the rubber. I now fear that I might have damaged it doing this and that I may have lost the electric isolation between the two parts.
    In summary: does anyone know if there is some more screw holding this thing in place, or else how I should proceed to get it off?
    I need it off in order to reach the bolts that hold the flywheel, which I want to take off to clean from rust and inspect the cogs for ware.
    Please see images for further clarity.
    Most thankfully
    Per Runhammar
     

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  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Do you have to take it off?
     
  3. baeckmo
    Joined: Jun 2009
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    baeckmo Hydrodynamics

    The inner hub is aluminium and centering in a cylindrical guide around its perimeter. "Corrosion is a strong bond"; it takes a dedicated amount of violence to get it off. You will probably have to demolish it, but it has to go anyway, it can not be trusted after the bath and following treatment.
     
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  4. C. Dog
    Joined: May 2022
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    Location: Coffs Harbour NSW Australia

    C. Dog Senior Member

    @baeckmo is on the money, dissimilar metals in the presence of electrolyte. Aluminium salts really stick and often heat is necessary. An oxyacetylene multi jet heating torch is a boat mechanic's best friend, but needs experienced hands as cast alloy gives little indication before it melts, and modern gear has lots of plastic, not to mention volatile liquids etc. Try working it on an off with some lubricating spray, you might save the flex plate.
     
  5. BMcF
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    BMcF Senior Member

    I'm filing that with my other great quotes. A friend and colleague, British fella, responded to a question about aluminum corrosion issues in the marine environment thusly " You know....aluminium comes from sea water, and it wants to go back"
     
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  6. Runhammar
    Joined: Jul 2020
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    Location: Stockholm

    Runhammar Junior Member

    Thank you for your replies. I have now concluded that mine is the newer version of flex plate, which is built rather like a sandwich with one inner, aluminium part and an outer, steel one, just like you said, Baeckmo. I have been in contact with three service firms for Volvo penta here in Stockholm/Sweden this morning and the respons has been varying between complete nonsense and some vague ideas. Much better information in this forum. Anyway, I don't give up - Baeckmo, you say that the inner, aluminium, part, is centered in a cylindrical guide. When I look at the image that comes up searching by the parts number, the aluminium plate looks flat, you you mean that the cylindrical guide is cut into the flywheel? If you have the time I would greatly appreciate your opinion after seeing the image, so that we are talking about the same part.

    gonzo, do I have to take it off? Well, that is my problem right now. I would sure like to so I can inspect the rubber parts before I install the engine in the boat. If I can't get it loose, then I'll have to try and leave it in place. The problem, as I wrote in my original post, is that I don't know if I have damaged the rubber parts when I tried bending out the outer plate with a screwdriver earlier. It feels like it sits firmly in place, and there is no electrical connection between the plates, but I cannot tell by rocking the part whether it feels as it should. Have not been rocking/feeling a lot of flex plate in marine engines in my life...
     

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  7. Runhammar
    Joined: Jul 2020
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    Location: Stockholm

    Runhammar Junior Member

    Stop all your worries! No more lost sleep over my problem. The flex plate popped out today, after some more knocking. It is however in a bad state and I now need to learn how to take it apart. Will start new thread. All advice is, as allways, greatly appreciated.
     
  8. BlueBell
    Joined: May 2017
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    BlueBell . . . _ _ _ . . . _ _ _


  9. Runhammar
    Joined: Jul 2020
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    Location: Stockholm

    Runhammar Junior Member

    Ah, I did not know that threads had to be closed. As far as I'm concerned it is now an issue about handelling the part.
     
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