Refinishing a fiber glass hull, questions!

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by Kmmcreynolds, Sep 6, 2020.

  1. Kmmcreynolds
    Joined: Sep 2020
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    Location: Aurora, CO

    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    Awesome!

    do you press the cotton ball firmly, with pressure, and then rub it? Or lightly brush it?
     
  2. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Firmly.
    It is checking if the oxidation pits ate deep. The deeper they are the more gelcoat needs to be removed to bring the surface profile even with the bottom of the pits.
    It also checks if any flakes are exposed. The flakes don't take well to buffing or sanding. Once they are exposed it is time to repaint.
     
  3. Kmmcreynolds
    Joined: Sep 2020
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    Location: Aurora, CO

    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    I can almost promise this before the test...

    the bottom half of the hull will likely not cause issues with the cotton ball, while the top half will. The bottom half is MUCH smoother, seems like it’s in much better shape.

    I assume (but will test) at minimum the top half will need to get a new coat of gel coat.

    is it easier/better to place a new layer on the entire boat instead of half only? Half only seems odd, but maybe not.
     
  4. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Repainting a portion of the hull is more common than repainting the entirety. Common splitting is at the tub rail and a chine.


    Originally there was a fairly thick layer of clear gelcoat over the graphics/ glitter layer of gelcoat. It is safe to assume that most of the clear is now rotten and needs to be removed for the cosmetic restoration. Is there enough uncurupted clear left?

    Glitter that is sanded looses it glitteryness and turns dull grey. The graphics can be on such thin layers that a single swipe of sanding can remove a portion of it.

    Any oxidation left will be a cosmetic blemish.
    Under wax, it will also shorten the buff out's lifespan.
    Under clear it will also cause adhesion issues.
    Cosmetic damage to the graphics is nearly impossible to correct!

    How much of a gambler are you?
    Are you willing to live with cosmetic damage?
    Are you willing to spend a fare amount of time/effort buffing to then change course and repaint?

    Final grits
    Buffing. 1000
    Automotive clear. 600
    Automotive paint. 400
    Gelcoat. 120
     
  5. Kmmcreynolds
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    Location: Aurora, CO

    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    To be perfectly honest, I just want to pick the direction that will promise a good outcome. I don’t want to have to “redo something”, take a step backwards, whatever.

    I am more than happy with time and effort, if anything, I would love to spend time and effort.

    I don’t want to cut corners and half *** it so to speak....

    do it right the first time.
     
  6. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Location: Colorado

    Blueknarr Senior Member

    I don't want to recommend a course of action that requires skills or equipment you don't have. So here goes another round of twenty questions.

    You posted pictures of the boat inside of a shop/garage, is this where you intend to work on it?
    Is it heated?
    Do you have a large air compressor?
    Do you have experience with automotive style paint sprayers?
    What is your experience with polyester resin?
     
  7. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
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    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    Let's start from the beginning again.

    Your primary concern is structural integrity, check everything with wood in it, floor, stringers and transom. Do nothing until you have fully evaluated their condition and have a plan in place to fix them.

    Once you've completed all those repairs, then come back to the cosmetics.

    Throw re-gel coating out the window, it's a very slow, labor intensive and expensive way to go. Especially for a rookie.

    Always start with the least aggressive method first, which in this case is a fast cutting compound. You need a compound designed for gel coat, automotive compounds don't work nearly as well.

    Buy a buffer at Harbor Freight, you can get the pads and other stuff there too. Just not the right compound.

    Start on a 1'x1' area and see what you need to do to get the desired result, it may be easy, or impossible.

    If buffing doesn't get you there, try 1000 grit and Buffing.

    Some gel coat can never be brought back to look good enough, but keep your fingers crossed.

    If all else fails use an automotive paint in the color of your choice.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2020
    bajansailor likes this.
  8. Kmmcreynolds
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    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    Those are all great questions!

    the boat is stored in my garage, with no need to move it. I have 2 space heaters for heat, that is all.

    I do have a large air compressor.

    zero experience in any of this, which made me figure I might have to practice in small amounts, on small spaces.

    or maybe that’s reason to do absolute bare minimum?
     
  9. Kmmcreynolds
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    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    My ultimate goal is the boat is safe to use. That’s my ultimate goal. I don’t care the most about looks.
     
  10. Kmmcreynolds
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    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    Thanks a ton everyone!!!! I will do all of the things mentioned, I will start basic and minimalist, and see the results. I will add baby steps (within reason).

    last question... it sounds like, correct me if I am wrong. If I “restore” the gel coat to look good, and down the road want to paint (nowhere near that right now), I simply paint on top of the gel coat, using the appropriate paint?

    And that paint will stick, assuming I use the right paint?

     
  11. bajansailor
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Barbados

    bajansailor Marine Surveyor

    In a one word answer - NO!
    You will have a LOT of preparation work to do first.
    Others on here can better advise on this than me - although you do already have the answer pretty much in the posts scribed above by Ondarvr and Blueknarr.
    But don't worry about all that now - concentrate on getting the boat seaworthy.
    Please do post some photos of those longitudinal stringers attached to the hull bottom - it is possible that they might need attention after 42 years.
    Similarly the transom - inspect / sound it carefully. A rotten area will sound different / possibly flex, compared to a 'good' area.
    Check all the outfit items - you have the fuel tank out, but there are lots of other bits to look at - eg deck cleats, hull / deck joint on the inside, bilge pump, electrical wiring, steering system (cable or hydraulic?), upholstery on the seating....... - these are all more important initially than buffing or painting the hull.
     
  12. Blueknarr
    Joined: Aug 2017
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    Blueknarr Senior Member

    Painting next year will require exactly the same prep process as painting today
     

  13. Kmmcreynolds
    Joined: Sep 2020
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    Location: Aurora, CO

    Kmmcreynolds Junior Member

    Perfect! I attached a few pics. So I am NOT painting it, I will start with bare minimum on the hull.

    The back of the boat is up against the wall, so I am not able to currently get a picture of that...

    but I am honest, I have much work to do.

    I have checked all over, I have yet to find “soft spots” anywhere on the boat. Whether standing on the back, poking around underneath by the gas tank, everything seems solid. But I am still checking. FYI I will not spend time getting the live wells working, all sections of the boat seems very, very sturdy.

    With that said, I will need to replace steering, throttle (waiting to the confirm the motor I will use, I have a few choices before I move forward with buy/install that). All of the upholstery will need to be replaced, new seats, the wiring (will do absolute basic), you name it, I will need to replace it.

    As of now, I am not going in any real order (maybe I should), I’m just tinkering around and picking what to do.
     

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