Redoing wood floor the proper way round two

[the brain]

Did someone tell you polyester resin sticks to varnish?
.

no I came up w/ that on my own.

 

[the brain]

If you are fiberglassing over oil and varnish, it won't work.

how about just the varnish and large exterior type carpet for protection?

 

[the brain]

How thick is your marine plywood and how many plies does it have?

3/4" 7 ply

 

[gonzo]

Polyurethane won't adhere very well over linseed oil. Most likely it will blister and peel.

 

[ondarvr]

If you've coated the wood with the blend you mentioned, then nothing will really work well over it, and that blend will help for a while, but it's not a long term protective coating. Polyester and epoxy are not a good option over the plywood now.

 

[SamSam]

Exterior carpet holds dirt and water, it usually ends up rotting the deck.

 

[SamSam]

I lived on a lake where there were a lot of pontoon boats with carpet and the decks would rot, so it was the practice there remove all the seats, console, railings etc and then replace the decks.

After that, they would seal them with something (I don't remember what was used) and then cover the whole deck with one big piece of rubber roofing. There was a roofing company where you could get offcuts and roll ends dirt cheap. The stuff was like innertube rubber.

8.5' Dicor EPDM RV Rubber Roofing - By The Foot http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-5-Dicor-EPDM-RV-Rubber-Roofing-By-The-Foot-/152600053676

That was stuck to the deck with contact cement or roof adhesive, and then the carpet was glued on top with more contact cement. Then everything else was bolted and screwed back down with plenty of sealant for the holes. The carpet could hold water and dirt and stuff, but nothing would get past the rubber roofing to rot the deck.

 

[the brain]

The varnish seams to be adhearing to the oldtimers mixture and improves woods appearance I may use only in cabin and under wall/door.
TB

 

[ondarvr]

Varnish is not a good protective coating for the deck/floor of a boat.

 

[the brain]

yes I'm finding this to be true I barely touched it w/ a aluminum cooler lid and now woods varnish is scratched

 

[the brain]

hopefully the round 3 won't happen soon.

will use this if not more than $150. next time World Panel Products: Marine Plywood & Teak http://www.worldpanel.com/type-1-pvc?gclid=CNL3s9rc79UCFdSIswodsTQDiw

mite use this Veranda 1/2 in. x 12 in. x 8 ft. Reversible Cellular PVC Fascia-H120WWS2 - The Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-1-2-in-x-12-in-x-8-ft-Reversible-Cellular-PVC-Fascia-H120WWS2/203733425

 

[SamSam]

Or, you could use materials that are known to work.

 

[the brain]

I'm open to suggestions this was suggested "PS1-95" grade but what is it where can it be obtained Unknown to me.

 

[SamSam]

.

I'm open to suggestions this was suggested "PS1-95" grade but what is it where can it be obtained Unknown to me.

"PS1-95" is the set of rules. Among the rules the suitability of plywoods to resist water damage are rated. Here's the difference between ratings of stuff that can be used outside...

Exposure 1 plywood
Plywood suitable for uses not permanently exposed to the weather. Panels classified as Exposure 1 are
intended to resist the effects of moisture on structural performance as may occur due to construction delays,
or other conditions of similar severity.

Exterior plywood
Plywood suitable for repeated wetting and redrying or long-term exposure to weather or other conditions of
similar severity.

This is what the different labels look like...

When coating plywood (or any porous surface) you'll need enough to do three coats, including all edges, holes, cut out and sides. Typically you can expect 300 sq. ft. of coverage over a porous surface, like the raw wood coat on plywood, per gallon. Maybe 20 - 30% more on previously sealed surfaces.

The label on the right is the one you're looking for. Note the "PS1-95" grade I previously mentioned. This is still the redheaded stepchild of plywood, but usable in some applications. Notice the differences in the label, the right one says "Exterior", while the left side shows "Exposure 1". This is the lowest acceptable grade you should consider (Exterior).

You can get this plywood anywhere, Lowes, Home Depot, local lumberyards etc in all sorts of grades AC, BC, BB etc and thicknesses but it needs the EXTERIOR stamp or rating and NOT the Exposure 1 rating.

You don't need this anyway, didn't you get a sheet of marine ply?

 

[gonzo]

Re-read the previous posts. There are several suggestions about materials known to work. This time, try the advise given and you should get good results.