Redoing wood floor the proper way round two

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by the brain, Aug 5, 2017.

  1. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    actualley I've fixed /build lots of stuff w/ bondo resin, motorcycle fairings/fenders built custom guage pods,sub woofer/speaker enclosures ect.
     
  2. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Yeah, stuff like that. I've used some of it and would never suggest that it be used for anything on a boat.
     
  3. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

  4. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    No to mention, polyester resin isn't waterproof, which is what that stuff is. You can soak the wood all you want with that stuff, with no expectation of a waterproof coating. Use vinylester or epoxy resin instead. Additionally, mat doesn't add any strength to anything. It's just a bulking agent that sucks up resin like a hooker outside a GM assembly plant, on payday in a heavily window tinted minivan. You can do it right or Mickey Mouse it, the choice is yours, both cost about the same.
     
  5. MyFlamingo
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    MyFlamingo Junior Member

    I wonder why every fiberglass boat manufactured today uses Polyester Resin and glass to make their hulls with Polyester Gelcoat as their final finish if the polyester resin isn't waterproof. NOTHING is 100% waterproof some are more resistant than others. It takes a very long time for the resin to absorb minute amounts of water and as far as price goes if you can obtain the Polyester Resin locally there IS a significant savings
     
  6. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Those boat manufactures know what they're doing. You're comparing apples to oranges. I guarantee they don't use hardware store Bondo brand resin.
     
  7. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Not all manufacturers use polyester resins, in fact most don't. Correct, there's a big difference between the crap you get at the local big box store an quality resins. You can likely get any resin type you want locally, even in Oklahoma. Most of these formulators don't advertise to the general public, so you don't know they're out there, but there's plenty of business for formulators, across several industries. If not, having it drop shipped to your door is pretty easy.
     
  8. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

  9. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    That plywood is the APA grade for structural applications and does have a WBP adhesive, but little else to recommend it's use. It's junk and literally the cheapest piece of 3/4" plywood available.

    When coating plywood (or any porous surface) you'll need enough to do three coats, including all edges, holes, cut out and sides. Typically you can expect 300 sq. ft. of coverage over a porous surface, like the raw wood coat on plywood, per gallon. Maybe 20 - 30% more on previously sealed surfaces.
    [​IMG]
    The label on the right is the one you're looking for. Note the "PS1-95" grade I previously mentioned. This is still the redheaded stepchild of plywood, but usable in some applications. Notice the differences in the label, the right one says "Exterior", while the left side shows "Exposure 1". This is the lowest acceptable grade you should consider (Exterior).
     
  10. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

  11. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    are saying the rustolium will seal the marine PW?
     
  12. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    Rustoleum is good paint for what it is. It's not very tough though. This is a floor right? I'm guessing you are planning to walk on it, throw a cooler around on it, tackle boxes and other types of gear. I don't think Rustoleum is tough enough. To get a hard surface that will take some abuse you will want epoxy all the way. Seal every surface with epoxy and then paint the top with an epoxy paint. You might be tempted but you'll also be disappointed when it looks ruined after your first day out (ask me how I know.)
     
  13. Canracer
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    Canracer Senior Member

    If you have to cut costs someplace, I'd go with the best possible plywood. Not sure what you have planned for the final "work surface." No amount of good paint will save bad plywood; it will disintegrate.
     
  14. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    picked up sheet of marine PW not sure how it's classified was $120. plus $10. for PW type saw disc.

    ordered the total seal expoxy.

    uncertain how to apply the recommended 3 coats like when first coat is absorbed into wood and hardens how will wood still absorb though first coat?

    the last couple of weeks humidity is 90% and will continue for many more weeks, I assume expoxy won't stick/absorb properly this humid?
    TB
     

  15. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Only the first coat is absorbed into raw wood. After this you're building up film thickness, which is key to waterproofing. The trick to waterproofing isn't how deep the goo gets in so much, as how good (waterproof) and how thick the coating actually is, which is why everyone will tell you three coats are the minimum.Log onto my site and have a look at the epoxy use section. It'll quickly explain how to coat raw wood and how this differs from bulking coats. While you're at it, log onto westsystem.com and systemthree.com and download their free user's guides and epoxy book. Both cover the basics, how to mix, using fillers, filler types and reasons for use, etc. Though it may be 90% humidity outside, the wood will not be anything close to this. Lastly, don't use PT treated plywood. It's soaked with a preservative that takes months to dry out, to reasonable moisture levels.
     
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