Redneck...10 hours and $75.00 start to finish

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by lewisboats, Aug 9, 2010.

  1. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    3D part 1:

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    Part 2:

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    Proper joint:

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    Improper Joint...I was going for accuracy (silly me) and decided to measure from the 1" line for the required distance (adding the extra inch of course) ...dropped the measure and re-did it...and screwed it up by not adding the extra inch.

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    Done for the day...I have been on the go since 5:25 last night so it is time for a (nother) brew and then some sack time before work tonight.
     
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  2. wardd
    Joined: Apr 2009
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    wardd Senior Member

    a great boat for $10 and 75 hours
     
  3. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    Story sticks or direct comparisons of 2 sides sometimes work well. If it was me, I would make lines on the 2 sides where the aft part of the stem is, saw them off and put in a new stem with the boat 1 1/2" shorter.

    This is a good thread. Boats don't have to be precision works of art that one is leery of getting a scratch on.
     
  4. Petros
    Joined: Oct 2007
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    Location: Arlington, WA-USA

    Petros Senior Member

    there are lots of similar boats built around the country for "Quick and Dirty" or "Quick and Daring" type of contests. Rules vary but typically you get 2 or 4 sheets of 1/4 cdx plywood, 6 2x4s, 150 screws and 2 tubes of caulk. 2 or 3 man teams have 6 hours to build a boat, and than race it across a marina or lake. I have entered several of them, lots of fun.

    I recently entered one where we had to build a sailboat, and than race it around a lake against the others. Composite score based on cost of materils you buy retail, time to build, wieght of tools used, creativity and workmanship, and than a race around the lake. We spent about $50 in materials and 14.5 hours to build it, and used 19 lbs worth of tools. We came in second overall.

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    before launch

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    On the water with sails deployed, our competition on the right of the picture

    It does not take a lot of money, nor a lot time, nor a lot of fancy tools, to build fun small boats. Just creativity.

    I built a 14' sailboat with about $35 worth of salvaged lumber, though it took more effort, about 200 hours total build time including making the Tyvek sails.

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    My daughter and I in our $35 sailboat on Puget Sound.


    And I build several skin-on-frame kayaks for well under $100 worth of materials.
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    This one I built for my wife, we have been paddling it for about 4 years.
     
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  5. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Man...I can't get nuthin' right. The "proper joint" side is the one I cut too short, the one that has half the stem nekid is actually the right angle. Unfortunately I glued the stem to the short side first...leaving the other. I am seriously considering doing it over...it also is messing with the flare at the bow and there isn't much holding it. Cutting the glue line shouldn't take more than 10 minutes, another 5 for redoing the lines and cutting and another 10 to glue and screw back together. It is raining now but hopefully it will dry up a bit later...at least enough to get that done.
     
  6. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Well...it quit raining about 2 minutes to 8 so out I went. Stem came off in the allotted 10 minutes but it took about 7 to mark and cut the sides...caught myself almost making the same mistake but I didn't. Took another 10 minutes to make a new stem piece...the old one didn't have enough bevel along with having loads of glue and veneer on it. Installed the front frame to help bend the bow and then installed the stem. Took a bit of trial and error to get it lined up right but it is in. Nipped off the excess from the bottom and now it is potty and beer time. Total...56 minutes. Gonna pee the pooch and walk the park...back later.

    Edit: Oh...and pics later.
     
  7. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Pictures...a bit later than promised but still. I also took 20 minutes and mounted the transom knees, put in a temp spreader and trimmed what was left of the transom ply for a seat. The wales are just clamped on for a fit check.

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    I am not going to use the $10 ply for the bottom. It is TigerPly and absolute crap...even worse than the other luan I got a few years ago. It has two longitudinal face veneers that rival onion skin for thinness, two transverse cores sandwiching a single structurally significant longitudinal ply in the middle. I can't bring myself to use it when even a scratch against a waterlogged lily would go through the outer veneer. I will sub one of my 5 (even) plied Plyfloor Baltic birch underlayment sheets at $25 per sheet for it and have a bottom that can withstand a few knocks. This will put me over by $5 but it will be worth it.
     
  8. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    I WILL be done tomorrow...I found out this morning that I have an unexpected day off tomorrow and I won't have to be to work until Monday night. It will be tight but I still hope to come in at around 10 hours work.
     
  9. dragonkeyper
    Joined: Aug 2010
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    Location: US-Arkansas

    dragonkeyper New Member

    Very nice, i'm looking to do something similar. Where did you get your plans?
     
  10. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    I do my own. This one is easy...rip the side panels in 3 equal widths, add 2.5 ft from the middle piece to the 2 outer 8 ft pieces each. Cut the bow angle 7.5 inches back and the transom angle at 4.5 inches. Transom bevel is 15 deg, angles for the sides are 15 deg and so are the chine logs. Stem should be cut 30 deg per side for a 60 deg included angle and anything over 19" long (to be trimmed to suit later). Use the second panel as the bottom...use one edge along one edge of the chine and mark the other so you can get the bow piece out of the remainder. Use the leftovers as butt blocks etc. Bottom beam is 36" from outside of ply to outside of ply (subtract thickness of ply used when making internals) and beam at the shear is 44". Seeing as the side planks started straight all your lumber can be straight too...ie chine logs and wale stock. There isn't a curve that needs to be cut if you don't get fancy.

    Just as a quick rule of thumb...15 deg is 1" in 6" so one inch over for every six inches up when laying things out. Make 2 templates...one an inside angle and the other an outside angle (cut from one chunk of plywood). It makes laying things out a snap.
     
  11. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Well...today was totally buggered up. Nothing done except over sleeping, repair the kid's car, get roped into working my part time job for 4 hours and generally not being able to do a thing on what I wanted to work on exclusively. Tomorrow I will try again. I told everyone that I was going to be busy and not to bother me unless it involved blood or funeral arrangements.
     
  12. dangtue
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    dangtue Junior Member

    What an interesting project!

    I'm waiting to see your finish product.
     
  13. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Well here's news...some good... some not so good. Plenty of pics today but I didn't get done. I don't think...in fact I know...I won't manage the 10 hour mark. I have made too many mistakes and am too unorganized. I will wind up the build and list what should and shouldn't be done. I still have about 50 something minutes but I expect I have about 2 hours work to do, not including painting. If I had had help a couple of times I expect I would have been able to do it with a bit of time to spare but sometimes two hands just aren't quite enough.

    Anyway...here are the pics.

    I squared and leveled up the hull on a couple of tables and set to work.

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    I put the whole panel on and used one side as the edge...
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    This gave enough leftover to do the bow piece
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    Which was cut from the end of the scrap after cutting out the main bottom piece
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    Here it is positioned to mark for cutting
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  14. lewisboats
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    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    and here it is trimmed except for the tip
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    This is the ply I am using...nice even plies and no voids inside.
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    Starting to install the bottom: I spent a bunch of time on this as I kept knocking things out of square...time wasted.
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    No time for pics so here is the bottom done and screwed together, going over to install the block at the bow bottom joint.
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    Bottom Block of the same ply
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    Joint that needs blocking...before cleaning up
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  15. lewisboats
    Joined: Oct 2002
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    Location: Iowa

    lewisboats Obsessed Member

    Here is the block installed. The pads are to keep the screw tips from penetrating thorough the bottom
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    Re-checking the wales...still not glued on though...the air got still, the humidity went zoom and the sky started to get darker...time to pack it up.
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    The bottom profile is just a little off from the drawing...mostly I didn't add quite enough flare to the bulkhead sides. This would have pulled the bow up just a tad more. No biggie.
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    I hoisted it as you see it onto the old shoulders...50lbs maybe? and carried it into the garage, cleaned up the shavings and put things away, grabbed the mower and knocked out the front yard to keep the city off my tail and about 10 minutes after I was done it was raining...still is in fact.
     
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