Really, What is the best stringer wood?

I'm replacing the stringers in my 1985 Bayliner 2450. I have learned much here, but I can't get one thing locked down. What really is the best wood to use on new stringers? I have heard cedar, but that is to soft isn't it? I have also heard of using oak.

Does anyone have a real good answer? I'm sure there is more then one type of wood that would work, so how about the top 3 choices.

Thanks for all your help!

Mike

 

oak,oak,oak.
but thats just an "opinion" ,,,,,i hate wood,,,hehe
welcome to the forum

 

straight grained fir-install with grain up after encapsulating- cheaper than oak (just one opinion)

 

Douglas fur works good as do many different species, such as southern yellow pine (regular construction grade lumber in most parts of the country).

It's more important to have good wood, then select a specific species. You want wood that has a straight grain, free from knots or if there are knots, they should be very small and tight. Find some lumber that has a tight grain, with close annual ring spacing. It would also be wise to use a species that has good rot resistance and is easy to glue. Most of the oaks are difficult to glue with the adhesives you'll use, and they're heavier then necessary too.

Stay away from the light weight stuff like cedar and white spruce. They can work, but the stringer usually has to be larger in dimension for the lumber to do it's job. Don't even think about Pondrosa pine, as it will rot at the mear mentioning of mosture.

In Washington, you should be able to find some pretty Douglas fur.

 

Stringers

Thanks the1much, Kaptin-Jer and PAR for your responses. I feel I have the skills for the job, just lacking some of the knowledge. I will be repairing rot in the transom as well. I just purchased the boat for $1,500.00 with trailer. The boat is very clean on the inside and I knew the motor was needing rebuilt.

Again, thanks for your help. I'm sure I will have more questions later as I move forward.

Mike

 

uhoh,,,,its a bayliner,,,,,,,,,sorry man,,,,if i knew that i would of said ponderosa........hehe

 

LMAO, I know, I know! Once she is done it will no longer be a B/L ;P

 

oregon pine,
it may be a bayliner, BUT you did not buy it you stole it. good luck

 

ahha,,,,,,Lazy IS right,,,,,even tho,,,,,,haha,,, you did steal it!
and Glad to see that you got the real boaters sense of humor,,,we need more like you,,,hehe ,, well,,, without the BL hehe

 

stringer meat

I used fir for new stringers in my bayliner 3270. Unfortunately, I paid real money for the boat and had to do the stringer/transom/bulkhead dance 5 years afterward (still in the middle of it actually). The good news is, as you have alluded to, the issues around bayliner's inequities (ie what makes a bayliner a bayliner) are related to cost cutting decisions in material selection and assembly control. These decisions have varied effects - but hit hardest where protection of core material is concerned. In other words, once you've remedied their cheap a$$ manufacturing problems - the boat won't be half bad. At least on that side of the state you don't worry about the rain drizzling incesantly down on all your new glass work. Best of luck.

 

PAR is leading you down the correct road.......just follow and you will be fine

 

I gotta question- why not use plywood? On my Luhrs, they only used 3/4" ply.

 

Mongo75, lets just say that's the high productions interpretation. They are trying to build as cheap as possible. I would not be surprised if it was just A/C ply not even marine. Fir and Yellow pine hold epoxy well and have high strength to weight ratios

 

Hey what do you have against AC ply LOL. I'll be honest, I built my stringers out of ply (I hope I don't get hate mail now hehe) but the original stringers I cut out where only one piece of 3/4" ply, and 15' long. I cut them both out, and then made new ones from two sheets of 3/4" ply, with matt and epoxy in between each sheet. To ensure a good bond I place about 500 lbs of concrete blocks and engine parts on them while they cured. I then bedded them in thickened epoxy to ensure a good bond to the hull (hard points shmard points....) and then tabbed them with 6" tape, then 22oz woven, and then 12oz cloth over the whole thing again. Waterproof and hard as a rock. Now when I built my engine beds on the last boat, I just used 2 6x6x36" Fir blocks and cut to shape. However on this one I went this way because I couldn't see using mutiple hardwood boards to make the 15' of stringer I needed- plus it was just plain old easier.

 

Just so you know, Oregon pine is another name for Douglas Fir.