re-attaching deck to hull on fiberglass fish/ski boat

Discussion in 'Materials' started by bear43, Jan 3, 2012.

  1. bear43
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    bear43 New Member

    I am new to boating, but have a auto body back ground. My Uncle left me his 1982 Monark fish/ski boat. Problem is he had the deck and hull seperated. and I want to know can I re-attach the two by useing fiber glass cloth. and not attach the rub rail but make it look smooth.
     
  2. tunnels

    tunnels Previous Member

    Need pictures of what you have!, both bits hull and deck!!. . Usually just two types clip over deck onto hull pop rivited is best or one sits ontop of the other with a flang that sticks out ! and then a belting slideds over the top . Either is best if its sanded and when all is fitted together escurely glassed in place to keep the drippy stuff out . can do what you want once its glassed ! glass lay up100mm wide glass ! csm 450+800 gram double bias +450 csm and when hard and finished brush a generous extra coat of catalysed resin over the top of the glass to seal from any sorts of leaks
    The clip over deck is harder to glass the inside and is also harder to get the belting to sit nicely . The flang sticking out is easier to glass on the inside and easy to fit a belting to ,just make sure the rivits have had there under side lumps ground off or the lumps can cause a bump in the belting . :post some pictures so we can see what ya got !!!!. is best to glass the deck as its where a lot of pulling takes place with ski pole leaning against the back or cleats get tied to all part of the deck ,make sure always you sand well where the glass will be getting stuck to to get a good bond !!
     
  3. Yobarnacle
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    Yobarnacle Senior Member

    Fellow I know has a small fishing boat on a trailer, but could be tossed in bed of a truck and hang out some. The deck and hull uses flanges to join, but the flanges are rolled over into a lifting handle all along the gunn'l. He frp puttied in a length or two of PVC pipe along the underside corner and glassed over all. Very strong hull/deck join and a much stiffened gunn'l, and more hand friendly lifting contour. Looks great too.
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    There are three typical hull to deck cap flange types, each will have their own "uniqueness" to them, requiring some inventiveness, if you plan on cutting them down to make the hull sides/deck cap interface smooth. Simply put, the flanges offer a good bit of stiffness to the hull sides and also serve to locate the deck cap properly. By cutting a shoe box style of flange, you've removed this stiffener and the 'glass reinforcement you employ will have to be substantial enough to replace the lose.

    The second most common (next to the shoe box) deck flange is the out-turned type, where two horizontal lips meet and are screwed together, with a bedding between and an extruded cap to cover it. The other style is more common on sailboats and an in-turned flange, typically covered by the toe rail extrusion.

    The simple answer is, yep, you sure can, but the reality of it all is it depends on the flange type as to how much trouble you'll be in and how much 'glass you'll have to use to restore the lost stiffness.

    Lastly, if you bond the deck cap down, you'll need to use a reciprocating saw to remove it again, if in the future you need repairs.

    Post a picture of simple drawing of the flange and the obvious choices can be offered.
     
  5. bear43
    Joined: Jan 2012
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    bear43 New Member

    my boat

    209142_1601649052043_1560588582_1789490_896240_o-1.jpg sorry this is the only picture I have at the moment. I want to eliminate the old style rub rail. I want to glass the deck and hull together. I am wanting to know if this Idea will work.
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    You can replace the rub rail with one of several extrusions available, if this is what you want. You can also 'glass the seam closed, but if you need to pop the deck cap off the boat at some point for repairs, then you're screwed.
     
  7. Cobra1
    Joined: Feb 2008
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    Cobra1 Junior Member

    Bunch of rookies on here or what. What you have is a shoe box fit, found in most production line boats. They would use some caulking and a bunch of SCREWS to hold the deck on. I wouldn't waiste my time "CAPPING" that boat, it's just noth worth the time and money. You can use some of the ABS rub rail, in a 1 1/4" wide by 1/4" thick, and paint it to match. It would be the same process as painting a dash or car door panel. If you have your heart set on owning a boat with no rub rail, you will need to look for a "CUSTOM" boat, Eliminator and the like. It's easy to spot a boat with a "BUT FIT" the deck sits on the hull with no over lap. That would be the best way to start, and they are cheap and plentifull. Good luck
     
  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Cobra, it's wise to read the whole thread before making a comment, lest you make an obvious rookie mistake in a discussion forum. The original poster wants a clean, sans rub rail look, which may not be the way you'd do it, but it is what he wants and was the basis of his questions. Suggesting a different boat, when he has the one he wants is also not especially helpful, but thanks for repeating what has already been previously supplied in a less condescending tone.
     
  9. bear43
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    bear43 New Member

    PAR thanks for the words. This boat was my uncles RIP, he and I had allot of good times on this boat.I would just like advise on getter her back on the water so I can share some memories with my son and daughter. Like I said I have a back ground in auto body so I have already re-designed parts of the deck for access to the fuel tank.
     

  10. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    The fast way to get back on the water is to repair what needs to be repaired in regard to the hull shell/deck cap joint, then put another vinyl or extruded aluminum rail back on that old puppy. You could just fill and fair the joint, depending on which type it is, but this is a lot more work then repairing a few dings and reattaching a rub rail. These manufactured rails aren't especially cheap so you could just get some 1" flat bar aluminum stock and bend it around, hiding the seam and adding a new shinny bit. Evenly spaced oval head screws, the flat stock bedded in polyurethane and you're good to go.
     
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