Quick, Easy 3-Man Canoe Plans

Good one!

Reminds me of a young lady I spent two weeks with in Mexico years ago.

She was from Jacksonville!

I brightened up the exposure on my last drawing (Post#206).

I'm wondering what negative effect no knife edge might have at the bow.

Simply an expanding semi-circle.

I did it for ease of construction and to make turning more managable through those 120 degree righthanders.

With all the longitudinal stability from the narrow 24' hull and the skinny 8' amas I'm thinking directional stability will be fine.

The round cross-section of the hulls should ease yaw rotation as well.

The three paddlers spread out along the length of the hull should provide good steering leverage too.

Thoughts anyone?

 

A knife edge at the bow is helpful if you are planning to exceed the speed of sound in water otherwise not much effect at all. Ships propellers and sub-sonic aircraft wings have rounded leading edges. Around 1/4" radius will be fine.

 

What I meant was the absence of a stem, vertical or otherwise.

 

So you mean something like an ellipsoid cone split along the long axis?

 

- sorry Tom, didn't get your meaning - I guess you meant a cutwater. Adding a stem to the outside protects against impact and prevents water soaking into the planking endgrain but doesn't do much for speed through the water IMHO. An internal stem increases building time but also adds greatly to strength. Boats without a stem usually have epoxy and tape or poured epoxy instead, which takes time to set. If you are planning glueless construction you may wish to try several cable ties to fasten the planks at the bow, with a thick layer of sealant inside, which should hold together for one short trip, and will certainly reduce building time. After all, binding worked on native Indian canoes for centuries. BVinding would also simplify a curved bow.

Now I'm confused . . . !

 

Thanks gents.

I'm referring to the shear in side view.

Some refer to it as deadrise.

I believe there may be a benefit to splitting the water laterally.

However, if the gains I mentioned earlier out-weigh the losses...

 

Maybe I should have called it a parabolic cone, but the shape I drew was a rendering of a truncated ellipse.

 

That looks more like a 3-month building project than a 3-hour one! The experimental canoe I am finishing is not far from that concept; I'm trying to complete it in less than 2 years from the start . . .

 

No, we actually have four full hours to build in, three guys, well practiced.

The figure head will facilitate the SOF stringers joining together and will form a small vertical stem so my question becomes moot.

I know, Terry, this project has evolved into something out of your comfort zone but I thought pushing your limits a bit might prove interesting.

I'm having a challenge getting the 1/12th scale model lashed together.

Dam sewing thread sucks!

Now I just have to figure out how to join the stern...

 

- try button thread if you can get it, it doesn't tangle as easily: the regular machine sewing thread is twisted and not meant for hand-sewing and tying.

 

Use upholstery thread if you can't find button thread. It is polyester(dacron) and is very strong without stretching.

http://www.spoolofthread.com/contact/

 

Thanks guys.

 

The traditional way to stretch the skin over the hull is to run a cord in a zig-zag way over the deck and pull the skin tight, than hand stitch the extra fabric closed on the centerline.

I would not do this, but rather use staple guns to staple the fabric either at the gunwales or the center line on a top deck. Center the fabric, pull end to end and staple fabric at bow and stern in just a few places. than flip the hull and from the center of the boat have someone pull the fabric tight around the hull and start stapling in a tight line (staple only about .5 to .75 in apart). Work your way from the mid point of the hull toward the ends, pulling the wrinkles out as you go. Alternate from forward to aft to try and keep the fabric evenly stretched. Work the wrinkles out as you staple it up on the bow and stern. fold the top edge under (trim with scissors as you go to remove excess fabric) and staple it down to make a finished looking seam.

A tight line of staples will disappear into the fabric once you have 3 or 4 coasts of paint on it (the minimum to seal it up). You can put a trim strip over the row of staples but it is only to make it look nice, it is not needed to hold the fabric on. This is much faster than sewing the skin on, two people should be able to get the skin on in 20 min. I have done it solo in about 45 min. With two staple guns it can go even faster, work out your hand strength really good or those hand staple guns will give you hand cramps before you are done.

Another type of string that makes good lashing is unwaxed dental floss, it is polyester and does not stretch, and it is cheap. It would make good lashing but it is rather fine so it will take a few more wraps.

 

That's interesting.

Thanks Petros.

I'll try starting in the centre and working forward and aft.

The "stitching" isn't for the fabric though, it's for lashing the stringers to the bulkheads.

The "fabric" is plastic and we'll be using tape.

Cheers!