Questions

Discussion in 'Materials' started by Reid Crownover, Apr 26, 2018.

  1. Reid Crownover
    Joined: Sep 2017
    Posts: 42
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    Location: Texas

    Reid Crownover Young Hustler

    Ok, That makes since. One other question I had. When fiber glassing large areas (Like a hull) Can you do a portion of it, let it dry, and come back the next day and do another portion of it? I ask because The bottom of my hull is up on blocks and that would be the only way to do the bottom. My main concern is that it will affect the structural integrity of the fiberglass because I need the fiberglass on the hull to be load baring.
     
  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I agree, but I've found most novices push the goo to the edges and end up with a pool or considerable ooze out, before they learn this lesson.

    Ideally, you'll want to do whole panel sections at a time and on a boat the size of yours, this is easy. You'll likely do each side as a single piece and the bottom maybe too wide for a single piece, but you'll overlap along the centerline, doing each side in one shot.

    'Glass isn't going to lose any integrity, unless you've made a bonding error. You don't think they built 45' yachts with a single shot of fabric do you. We call these mechanical bonds and they're just fine, though technically slight less strong, but still way strong enough for a little boat like yours. Sometimes you have no choice but to start and stop and there's procedures for this.
     

  3. rwatson
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    Location: Tasmania,Australia

    rwatson Senior Member

    Par has got it right about it being OK to do it in stages, of course.

    I just mention now because you are new to this, that the only thing you need to watch when doing it in stages is that if you leave the overlap for more than 12-24 hours and it has fully cured, you should give it a good wash with warm water in case this stuff called "amine blush" has appeared. Its a water soluble byproduct of the Epoxy curing process, and can easily be washed off.

    If you organise things well, you can do the next stage before the first layup has cured totally and is slightly tacky. This makes for a little better bond, and does away with the need to worry about getting rid of "amine blush".

    In the worst case, if you have to leave it for days, you may need to do a thorough wash and a sand down with coarse wet and dry paper before doing the next stage to get rid of bugs, dust etc.

    As Par said, these "stages" won't be a problem unless you really inadvertently miss a bad case of contamination. WD40 will really wreck a layup :)
     
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