Quality instruction video for Vacuum Infusion using PRO-SET® epoxy from West System Intern

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by rwatson, Mar 19, 2020.

  1. rwatson
    Joined: Aug 2007
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    rwatson Senior Member

    This video is one of the better quality ones I have seen, showing a step by step infusion process for a small canoe hull.

    In particular, the 2 layer "Distribution Mesh" (4:05) that incorporates the release film in the second layer, was a new concept for me.

     
  2. DGreenwood
    Joined: Aug 2004
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    DGreenwood Senior Member

    Thanks you sir. Very useful. I didn't know about the mesh/release combo either.
     
  3. fallguy
    Joined: Dec 2016
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    fallguy Senior Member

    Can watch tomorrow. Thanks
     

  4. rob denney
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Australia

    rob denney Senior Member

    Surprising that they don't use these Resin Infusion Silicone Connector http://www.carbonmakers.co.uk/prestashop/home/744-resin-infusion-silicone-connector.html which are a lot easier to attach to and seal than the T joins.
    100:27.4 resin:hardner is absurd and a measuring error looking for a place to happen. I would have a chart of hardner weights vs resin weights in 1 gramme instalments over the likely range to avoid errors. Pour in roughly the amount of hardner, see what it weighs and add the resin. Always the hardner first as small over/under errors have a smaller effect.
    They would use less resin and not need the mesh/release if they ran 2 or 3 resin lines lengthwise. A decent infusion resin will flow 250mm/8" either side of the line on solid laminate. They could also use a thin mesh (30% shade cloth for example), which comes off with the peel ply, costs very little and uses less resin.
    Post curing using hot water is expensive and does not supply much heat. Better to flip the mould and put a heater and thermostat under it. Water heating the mould during the infusion would speed the process considerably as the resin gets thinner as it gets hotter. Also cures faster and needs less post cure time.
    The surface finish is excellent. Pity to destroy it by sanding it. Easier to use thin peel ply, rip it off and apply the paint direct. Better still is to experiment and find a paint which can be applied to the mould which the resin will stick to. Or use gel coat and vinylester.
    Presumably the seats are added later. The landings for them should be in the infusion. As should the (presumably) wooden gunwhale.
     
    rwatson likes this.
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