Powercat 4.3m long

Discussion in 'Motorsailers' started by cookiesa, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    Hi everyone, please be gentle I'm a newbee!

    I am working on a plan for a small powercat for coastal fishing. Cat because of stability when anchored and economy when running. Doesn't need to do 38knts but handle 1-1.5m swell and reasonable winds (around 15knt?)

    I would like a twinfisher or devilcat but want to try and design/build one as a project. I have previously rebuilt/restored small sailing craft and converted a 16ft dory in to a small power cruiser (monohull) previously. That said I have lots to learn and plenty of mistakes to make but hopefully will end up with a boat that works!

    I'm looking at glass over ply for construction and to help keep costs down a single outboard centre mounted. I'm hoping around 40-50hp will work but that may need to be changed when sea trials start!

    After plenty of research I am looking at a V of around 14 degrees at stern carried 3/4 forward before finishing at the bow. (V for stability/ rough weather handling but keeping it minimal to reduce HP required. Bulkheads will be full width (2m). Most of cockpit will be self draining with a covered helm area and rocket launcher.

    I would appreciate everyone's thoughts on a few of the following;

    1) I feel my hulls should be narrower (currently .6m wide) and the bridgedeck made wider (currently same as hulls (.6m wide) (I am thinking in the vacinity of a hull width of .4m wide leaving a gap of .8m)
    2) Currently the bridgedeck clearance is .4m I would like it higher but I am also trying to keep the cockpit floor to deck level around .6m for safety with smaller children on board and also whilst lifting fish in.
    3) Currently the hulls are "box" like towards the stern rather than making them taper narrower, I have kept this to help offset the weight of the outboard (pod mounted on centreline between hulls)

    I have some good info already on reducing cavatation with a centre motor so am not concerned with that.

    Sorry if this has already been covered I have tried a few searches so hopefully this isn't to repetative!


    I am at the model stage but think I could go with narrower hulls.
     
  2. tri - star
    Joined: Feb 2007
    Posts: 87
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 3
    Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada

    tri - star Junior Member

    Stability and buoyancy, are tricky with smaller cats.
    I suggest you go for a few rides in sail cats, in the length you are
    thinking about.
    As you will find that the movement of the people aboard a smaller
    vessel has a suprisingly, significantly greater effect, than on one
    - only 20% longer.

    The fineness of the hulls becomes a redundant issue, if you don't
    have sufficient initial resistance - as the vessel heels over,
    Even in moderate conditions.
    You mention children. So I suggest, even greater caution than usual.

    Go down to the beach. Notice how much fun the 16 ft cat guys are
    having. Also how easy it is to " fly " a hull. - And flip the boat.
    Go for a ride in a 40 ft power cat. It will, 99.999 % of the time, keep
    both hulls firmly planted in the water.
    ( Which one, is the "family friendly" boat ?)

    Before you go any further - I suggest you find out why, all the above is so.

    Don't get me wrong I am a muti - hull guy !
    But ALL hull forms have their limitatations.
    A cats advantages come from having less boat in the water. At it's most basic.
    This means, however, that is a poor load carrier. Also not very forgiving, of
    being overloaded. Particularly as the cat gets shorter.

    The vessel you describe will need to be a good load carrier and will be prone to
    overloading. All this is somewhat contradictry. Sorry to say.

    Cheers !
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2007
  3. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    Thanks for the response.

    Certainly have some design issues to work on however in Australia smaller powercats have been around for years and there are several manufacturers that have proven this design works well for coastal use.

    Some even shorter. I am more or less restricted to around the 4m size. 5m would be maximum but of course increasing length also increases cost. Most of our fishing is done within about 10km of the local marina and a "long" trip would be around 30km.

    Most of the boats are the usual fiberglass or alloy runabouts with planing hulls but the conditions here mean you are often bucked around at anchor and often running at speeds that mean you can't get the efficiency out of the hull as it is too rough on the plane.

    My original boating was with sailing and the point you make about stability etc is not really a fair comparison. Very different use, as you no doubt already know cats run a higher aspect rig moving the COG higher up then even a similar sized monohull. Sailing places very different forces on the hull.
     
  4. tri - star
    Joined: Feb 2007
    Posts: 87
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 3
    Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada

    tri - star Junior Member

    O K cookiesea.

    It looks like you have done your homework.
    First, in my experience, a V of 14 degrees is a good choice for a planning cat.
    You will get both a soft ride and good economy.
    At 23' to 25' a tunnel of 33 % of the W.L. Beam will also work well.

    However, it does not follow, necessarily - that this ratio will give you
    adequet buoyancy in a shorter vessel.

    I am still concerned that you look carefully at stability issues.
    The actual cost of the hull proper, may only be 20 % of overall expenses.
    So adding length is not always as costly, as is often presumed.

    Cheers !
     
  5. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    Thanks

    Thanks for the feedback, My main reason for the length issue is storage. We already have a 4x4, sedan, camper trailer, sailing dingy and 6x4 trailer and the boat will also be stored at home. The sailing dingy will probably have to go as it is.

    That said I think you have answered another niggling thought I have been having and that is should the hulls be narrower to help with efficiency and chop handling. I'm thinking I'll stick with the widths.

    I'd appreciate your thoughts on strength of the structure. I'm looking at bulkheads 9mm ply (filleted), stringers 20x40mm hull skin 6mm ply with 10oz epoxy/cloth to outside and decks, epoxied interior for rot resistence.

    I'm hoping for aroun 20knts top from around 50hp but this I think may be a little ambitious!

    Thanks again
     
  6. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    In line with your thoughts I'm thinking of going to 5m
     
  7. tri - star
    Joined: Feb 2007
    Posts: 87
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 3
    Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada

    tri - star Junior Member

    Sounds good to me, generaly.
    Although, with me you can never have to much epoxy.
    Inside and out. However, you are on the right track.
    Often it's the inside where the trouble often begins.

    A trick that gives you a better glass to resin ratio is
    to use two layers of 5 oz instead of one layer of 10 oz.
    Also this makes it easier to cover hard to get at places.

    There is a great book on epoxy / wood construction
    put out by the WEST system people. That I found
    useful. You dont have to use their epoxy necessarily.
    Just check out the their book.

    Signing off now.

    Cheers !
     
  8. northerncat
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 170
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 9
    Location: australia

    northerncat Senior Member

  9. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    Thanks for the link, quite interesting!
     
  10. northerncat
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 170
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 9
    Location: australia

    northerncat Senior Member

    so tell me what can you do to reduce cavitation issues with a single motor?

    i also agree with the length thing an extra m might cost you all of 150$ but prove invaluable as you head out fishing in the chop
     
  11. northerncat
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 170
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 9
    Location: australia

    northerncat Senior Member

  12. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    Thanks for the link. I had seen that. It is interesting when you go back over things you have already looked at though, helps you to either stay on track or reavaluate your plans!
     
  13. northerncat
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 170
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 9
    Location: australia

    northerncat Senior Member

    i thought it was interesting to, a little biased too biased towards the hysucat thing but still interesting
    sean
     
  14. cookiesa
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 122
    Likes: 0, Points: 16, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Launceston, Tasmania

    cookiesa Senior Member

    They were really quite dissmissive of the type "A" yet Australians appear to be leading the area in smaller (and larger if you look at Incat etc) power cat design. Certainly there seems to be, on the net at least more Australian powercat designers than in other parts of the world. Or have I just missed them?
     

  15. northerncat
    Joined: Jan 2007
    Posts: 170
    Likes: 1, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 9
    Location: australia

    northerncat Senior Member

    one other reason im looking at assymetric hulls is that apparently the water in the tunnel is forced into a bulge(like the tunnel hull boats) and this allows you to lift your motor up a bit which means less drag= more speed
    i agree with what you say about his claims re type a cats however there are a quite a few aussie builders making assymetrics westcat markham and dominator cats being a few

    i quite like the look of these
    http://www.porterieboats.com/story.htm

    another interesting article, i must admit the idea of fitting a foil down the track would intrigue me
    http://www.marinews.com/details.php?recordid=514
     
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.