Another sealant question

I have a removable panel in a shower. It is a water heater access panel on the vertical, about 2' square.

Backed off with some high density core. I have to decore the inside. Anyone know the best way to seal it? Butyl is kind of ugly and hair would stick.

I could put a bulb in the backer with a router. Or I could put a bulb in the lid, but would be cutting glass. The bulb would leak on top I think likely and screws around the lid might a bit. Bulb probably makes the lid proud which is more leaky!

Any commercial products like a rubber flange?

someone must know commercial solutions

 

What do you mean by "bulb"?

 

Surgical tubing. Round bulb in adhesive.

For now I found some neoprene two sided tape. Maybe 0.080"?

I am going to keep the tape on one side and screw into the margins.

 

Trying to decide if I want to fair it as well or leave it. The top is tight. I could also put a flange over top, but rather not.

The neoprene is a bit thick; not by much.

It'd look nicer with a rubber trim over it.

 

Let me know if anyone can make it sealed and look nicer. Maybe I just need a flange on the edges, but a sealing flange would be better still.... perhaps I build a flange or lip and then just use two sided tape, no screws...

 

What are you planning on using to secure the panel in the aperture?
And how often will you have to be go behind there re routine inspection?
I think that a flange (like a picture frame) around the perimeter would look nice.

 

It is water heater access for removal or metering adjustments. I might be able to make an easier access for metering from another panel. Once the meter is set it doesn't need opening unless there is a problem. It is a stainless isotemp, so should last awhile.

I think the flange is the best as well. Just adds to my workload...but I could seal it in three places then. A real double side seal under the flange, then a single sided neoprene inside like I did.

But still must be some way to make seals that are flush like a deck panel.

 

Gaskets all work in compression, and for that you need some arrangement to pull the panel to the inside lip, and the panel needs to be rigid enough to resist deflecting. Commercial solutions aside, for a flush panel here is what I propose:

Method 1:
Have a series of simple latches fitted to the inside of the lid. For that you glue a strip of wood to the panel backside, same height as your frame, and simply screw short pieces of wood on. The latches close over tapered wedges glued to the backside of the frame, thereby compressing a soft rubber gasket. The friction of wood on wood will keep them from opening. To operate the latches drill a 4" hole into the center of the panel, and close it with a plastic screw in inspection port.

Method 2:
Use strong bungee cord to pull the lid onto the frame, you need a handle to be able to pull the lid out and disconnect the rubber band, it can be a simple piece of webbing glued to the lid. Bungee is fixed to the inside and tensioned over hooks on the lid, one loop for each side of the lid. Example: Chesapeake Light Craft » Installing Flush Hatches without Toggles » Chesapeake Light Craft | Boat Plans, Boat Kits, Boatbuilding Supplies, Boat Kit, Kayak Kit, Canoe Kit, Sailboat Kit https://www.clcboats.com/modules/shoptips/shoptip.php?quickname=fitting_out&quickname2=hatches_no_toggles&print=1

Method 3:
Rare earth magnets: drill a series of holes (approx. every 2-3" depending on the size of magnet) in the frame and lid, epoxy in small magnets. Make sure the holes are aligned (tape the lid in place, drill through the lid into the frame), and that all the magnets are glued in with the poles aligned. Alternatively you can buy magnetic self adhesive tape, as used on fridge and shower doors. In both cases the soft neoprene or silicone gasket goes between the magnets, and you need some form of handle to be able to pull it open.

 

This is an example of a rubber T-Seal. There are many different profiles, some even self adhesive, different material, and less of a crown
Certainly some narrower than the upper flange shown in the picture. google Rubber T seal profiles