Polyester resin drying?

Discussion in 'Materials' started by jawnn, Aug 17, 2015.

  1. jawnn
    Joined: Aug 2015
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    Location: Port Townsend

    jawnn jawnn

    so now I am going to apply the last of the epoxy tomorrow morning and after that drys I must apply the varathane ( it has a bit of aluminum powder in it to make it last longer.)....but I am worried about it over lapping the epoxy.

    I should have gotten 5 gallons of epoxy, then the price would have been as low as the varathane.

    how dry does the epoxy need to be? I am assuming it should be not tacky, I have been having a hard time getting it to dry perfectly. I was delayed today because there was a bit of tacky feel to some of the epoxy.

    well I did discover that if the epoxy gets wet, and it does not dry...I was able to heat the room up enough that the floor got to about 70 degrees, and it dried.
     
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    Epoxy doesn't dry, it reacts to form a hard polymer. Low temperatures will stop the reaction. However, it will give time for water to mix with it and react with the hardener.
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Painting over epoxy should be done with a good primer first, if using an alkyd or a modified alkyd. Polyurethanes are usually okay to use straight over, so are the acrylics and LPU's but alkyds can be hit or miss.

    Epoxy, if mixed properly, will cure, assuming the temperature is sufficient. As Gonzo points out, if it's too cool, it'll will not cure, but once the temperatures are high enough for the type hardener you're using, in 24 hours, it be cured.
     
  4. jawnn
    Joined: Aug 2015
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    jawnn jawnn

    ok I will have to get polyurethane.( any special kind?)....and forget the varathane.

    I was delayed yet another day, the epoxy on the strand board refused to dry the last little bit....I mean it kept having a slightly sticky feel to it. no fumes.

    I may have to use a scrap of old plywood if it does not stop having the stickiness.

    now I am going to have to fill the voids between the boards and the wall with expansion foam..(that has propane gas in it)...I hope it will not effect the epoxy putty that I will make from glass bubbles (powder) ?????????????????


    maybe I should test some of it first.
     
  5. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    This seems like an incredible comedy of errors, sure to make it to the tinkerer's Hall Of Fame !
     
  6. jawnn
    Joined: Aug 2015
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    Location: Port Townsend

    jawnn jawnn

    I am not getting enough information.....it maybe a comedy to some people but to me it is hell......

    I discovered that oil based enamel does not dry over new epoxy. and I ground it off with wire brush wheel. but there is some flexible silicone calk that is impossible to scrape off. I will have to try Naptha. then maybe a tourch!

    I go the strand board to fell dry by setting it in the sun, but when I left it out all nite it feels like it is bonded with moisture again.

    I think some one should give me list of what will not dry over this hideous epoxy. and tell me is there something in the strand board that is conflicting with the epoxy?

    I have faith in the epoxy I will make, not sure in the colorant.....maybe dry powder will work better.




    what else will go wrong? some one should have told me to use polyurethane instead of epoxy.

    I have to go to town and buy polyurethane....I will no doubt get the wrong stuff, and end up living with an unfinished floor this winter.

    WHAT KIND OF PRIMER DO i NEED FOR THE POLYURATHANE??????????????
     
  7. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    SamSam Senior Member

    I don't know but that this seems like a good troll.

    I'm not going to read back, but it seems like every resin/gooey stuff used has been contaminated with some other resin/gooey stuff for no discernible reason.

    You need to just cut your losses, walk away and figure out some other way to get shelter.
     
  8. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Agreed, you have been warned about the various concerns (alkyds over raw epoxy, without primer, using OSB or "strand board, etc.) yet your budget, material choices and techniques have exposed what is fairly easy to find out about from several sources online (including here).

    Generally, when faced with what you initially were, a bodged resin mix, you start over, after removing all traces, then procedure with techniques and materials that work. Alkyds work over epoxy, though as mentioned, to prevent an issue, a primer is recommended. Epoxies and polyester work, though mix ratios need to be adhered to, application techniques followed, etc. As to how you should procedure, well I'm sure you'll devise something, you've experienced enough by now to have a pretty good clue, the real question is if you can afford to do it the proper way.
     
  9. jawnn
    Joined: Aug 2015
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    jawnn jawnn

    I could not understand your dis like of Varathane, until after you indicated that you thought it was an acrylic.....the varathane I have is an oil based polyurethane. ya, I think I should have gotten some alkyd resin and made my own paint.

    My computer died three weeks ago and I have to ride my bicycle to the library for only few minutes on the internet. it makes it very hard to learn anything, like searching and reading other info on the web.

    Do I have to use a two part polyurethane?

    Now I still do not know if it will dry over epoxy. Nor do I know what kind of primer to use. or what the perimeters are. maybe I have to use a two part primer??
    Are you saying that even alkyd over epoxy will not dry?
    you have to spell things out for me, I have no back ground to support the concepts of working with this stuff.


    I never thought of ospho as a primer, but I do don't think it will work as one for this...??

    I heated the inside of the bus up to about 75 degrees for 3 hours....or do I have to keep it hot for 7 to 10 days?

    what is "amine bleed thru"?? should I be using some kind of hardener over the epoxy, just to keep it safe? There are a lot of things that you have said that I just do not understand enough.

    At this point I am just trying to make sure the epoxy stays feeling dry, and not going to poison me this winter. maybe I will have to forget the polyurethane. turns out that do have enough epoxy to finish the tops. should I be sanding between coats?
     
  10. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Can you give a list of what hasn't gone wrong so far ?
     
  11. jawnn
    Joined: Aug 2015
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    Location: Port Townsend

    jawnn jawnn

    i PUT THE LAST COAT OF EPOXY on last night and kept it up to 95 degrees for at least five hours....but it was still sticky...I thought I was going to have to cut it out and put in new ply wood...

    but this morning it was hard to the touch, but soft enough to leave an imprint of my pants when i set on it.

    Is there a way to harden it more? or maybe put the last bits of epoxy I have left on it making sure the mix is correct. I must have used a bad mixing cup measure.

    I won't use that cup measure again.

    if no way to make it harder maybe I GET TO Have MORE FUN BY CUTTING OUT THAT SECTION AND putting in some new wood coated with polyurethane.....

    the silicone goop is dry to the touch now, so I don't have to worrie about that....???

    I will give a list of what did go right with it all after I calm down and stop freaking out....of course it it will very short.

    Too bad I did not think about using alkyd resin before I even got stuck in this quick sand.

    so I still do not know if this is going to give me cancer by living in there this winter. I survived an application of epoxy five years ago (gluvit)

    Believe me, I would scrap the whole thing if I had money...all I need is a small trailer...probably a thousand dollars? maybe if I can survive one winter with it.
     
  12. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    When epoxy is fully cured (about 3 weeks in normal temperatures) it is inert. After 5 hours, epoxy may be dry to the touch, but isn't cured, so it's soft. A lot depends on the brand and the hardener speed, but generally 24 hours in normal room temperatures is what you need to get a hard surface. With specific formulations and brands I can be more precise.
     

  13. jawnn
    Joined: Aug 2015
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    Location: Port Townsend

    jawnn jawnn

    well I think I did put a little less hardner the last batch..And I have decided that I need to put sheet metal over that area no mater how hard it is. so it will work out.

    I had so much fun yesterday going crazy about what to do that I decided to tear out one wall and vacuum up the carpenter ant beds that were about 15 years old. no ants now. new insulation....


    So the one thing that is good about this insane project is that I did manage to create a wall to wall water proof floor in the rear where the condensation is the worst.



    The foam I had squeezed into he cracks swoll up a bit but I don't really care how it looks. thanks for all the help.....I better stay away from boats.

    this is a picture of a house that I should build.....

    http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-db9inS3eSVg/VJ8oGfoJFsI/AAAAAAAACnI/aqa3ZVyJ0h8/s1600/earthbag-homes-7.jpg

     
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