Polyester knit fabric

[yofish]

High modulus elongation building methods have been employed previously, though specifically I'm talking about more than people power or small craft. Look into the "Lord" method and you'll find high modulus, yet quite flexible, very light weight hulls of significant size (70'+) suitable for patrol boat employment. The Lord method can be scaled down for recreational uses.

Dear gawd! Not THE Lindsey Lord that Tolman chastised me for not knowing anything about? The Lord that I have two copies of his 'Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls'? That Lord that I can't understand because I can't do the maths? The Lord that I pray that by lovingly have caressed the pages thereof (I'm certain) has osmotically transferred that which my brain can't comprehend? Thank gawd you didn't say the 'Savitsky method'!

THAT Lord?

Now this, I've gotta look into...

 

[PAR]

Yeah, that Lord or conversely, you could rely on the other one . . .

 

[yofish]

Now I'm moving on to build full scale. I have two choices of material to build the mold with: 1/4" AC ply or 1/8" aluminum. The ply is very good doug fir, made in the early 80's, that I've had 30 sheets rat-holed for over 25 years. I understand that polyester resin does not like to stick to AL but I'm thinking that I'll reinforce the insides with epoxy thus making the AL work in that respect. What would you use?

 

[yofish]

Here are two pics, one of the hull form and the other of the half-model mold plan, not to any scale. The frames are all perpendicular on the bottom and horizontal on the side. The stations that hold the shape, being inconsequential, aren't shown. When they are removed, the mold becomes framing when glassed in.

 

[waikikin]

Now I'm moving on to build full scale. I have two choices of material to build the mold with: 1/4" AC ply or 1/8" aluminum. The ply is very good doug fir, made in the early 80's, that I've had 30 sheets rat-holed for over 25 years. I understand that polyester resin does not like to stick to AL but I'm thinking that I'll reinforce the insides with epoxy thus making the AL work in that respect. What would you use?

Wow ..... so you've got 30 sheets of very good doug fir 1/4" ply.....
You "could" build a boat outa that
Jeff

 

[yofish]

Wow ..... so you've got 30 sheets of very good doug fir 1/4" ply.....
You "could" build a boat outa that
Jeff

Hey, I had 50 to start. What the hell did I do with the other 20? Got it at a going out of business sale for $5 ea, if I recall....

 

[yofish]

Out of curiosity, I did a test. I had some old fiberglass mat and cloth of various and unknown weights but on the light side with which I layed up a panel the same thickness (.055") as the polyester, three layers, two mat and one cloth. After it cured, I shot them both with a .177 cal pellet gun from 30'. The first shot went right through the model and not the glass. I moved incremental steps closer to the glass firing until at point blank, it still did not penetrate. As a reference, the pellets went straight through 1/8" masonite from 30'.

When I make the time to set up outside, I'm going to find the distance of no penetration between the model and masonite for the hell of it.

Spending some time with someone that is a pro glasser, the combo mold/frame idea is fatally flawed. Back to the board on that!

 

[waikikin]

Out of curiosity, I did a test. I had some old fiberglass mat and cloth of various and unknown weights but on the light side with which I layed up a panel the same thickness (.055") as the polyester, three layers, two mat and one cloth. After it cured, I shot them both with a .177 cal pellet gun from 30'. The first shot went right through the model and not the glass. I moved incremental steps closer to the glass firing until at point blank, it still did not penetrate. As a reference, the pellets went straight through 1/8" masonite from 30'.

When I make the time to set up outside, I'm going to find the distance of no penetration between the model and masonite for the hell of it.

Spending some time with someone that is a pro glasser, the combo mold/frame idea is fatally flawed. Back to the board on that!

Great research Yofish,

What a terrific marketing line though..... "Pellet Proof from Point Blank"

Jeff

 

[Jonathan Wilson]

I am no expert in anything except making errors that cost me everything I own. The few boats I have built: 26' & 30' & smaller ones, were all epoxy glass over wood. As an experiment I coated the bottom of one of my small salt water boats (with no glass or epoxy), with a very sheer, no stretch woven polyester fabric I found cheap at the local sewing clothing type fabric supplier (I tested it & could not stretch it or deform it in any direction) & coated it in urethane (I forget if it was single part or catalyzed but it was likely oil based single part as I like the slow cure & penetration) I inspected 3 years later, it still looked new. I mean NEW. I am encouraged to do more of this.

 

[Studio Max Print]

Polyester knit fabric is a versatile and durable material popular across various industries due to its comfort, flexibility, and resilience. Unlike traditional woven fabrics, knit fabrics are made by looping the yarn, which gives them their signature stretch and softness. This makes polyester knit fabric ideal for applications where movement and comfort are essential, like in athletic wear, casual apparel, and even upholstery.

One of the advantages of polyester knit fabric is its moisture-wicking properties, which keep the wearer dry, making it a top choice for sports and outdoor activities. It's also resistant to shrinking, wrinkling, and fading, ensuring long-lasting quality. Additionally, the fabric's ability to retain color well allows for vibrant, lasting prints, making it suitable for custom-printed items.

If you're looking to source high-quality polyester knit fabric for your projects, Studio Max Print’s options cater to both durability and design needs. For inquiries or custom solutions, visit Studio Max Print’s contact page.