plywood transom- sheer strength of 12mm meranti

First glass everything, then glue the chine rails on.

 

The chines already have 2 layers of 300gm biax, you can see it in the last pic (this was done before i realized the whole boat needed reglassing). I want the next 2 layers to cover the chine rails as well to save having to secondary bond it all

 

The glass was supposed to be staggered. You will need to prefair that before glassing the hull.

 

I do realize that! The strips are there because the chines had big cracks running half the length of the boat, the top layer is 20mm smaller than the bottom and it will all get feathered out when i sand the boat, its only been scraped so far.

 

Ah well, when you said "chine rails" I imagined you talk about something protruding from the hull, located at the chine. Just carry on, youave a nice boat.

 

Thats exactly what i meant, a 20 x 40mm strip of macrocarpa glued to the chine

 

In this case, glue them on later. There are several reasons for this approach:
1. In order to get the glass to drape over the runner, it must have generous radiuses all around, that means lots of filleting and no sharp edge. If you want a sharp edge you need to build it back with thickened epoxy and sandpaper.
2. When covering the hull you work with wide pieces, it's difficult to maintain weave orientation when going over the runner and do a quality lamination.
3. If the runner gets damaged you need to sand all the glass away.

If you do it the other way around there are only benefits, you have a nice continuous surface for glassing, you avoid all the big fillets and the runner can be milled beforehand to any shape you want. Just stick it on with thickened epoxy and temporary screws, fill the screw holes, coat the runners with a few coats of neat epoxy, then fair and paint. The worms will not eat coated wood, and if you get a ding you just smear some thickened epoxy over it. If you have to replace a piece it's just a matter of chiseling away and put some new wood in.

 

I ended up taking the less is more approach and did nothing at all. Far less work and looks way better, will mean a slightly wetter ride but she was never going to be a dry boat in any kind of chop.

I glassed the hull extensions/outboard well with 1 layer of 400gm biax, gave it a sand then chucked another 400gm biax over the whole boat (except the plywood well sides and the outboard bracket, they just have the 1 layer of glass)
Also did a thin screed of microballons while the resin was still green so i dont have to sand glass anymore

 

And paint!