Plywood Scarph Joint Ratio

Thanks LJ

I will snoop around

 

Screwing squares is fun, you old reprobate you...

 

It's good to know that Australian screwing is catching up with Canadian. There's no hope for US or Euro of course. Robertson's also come in SS and brass, maybe bronze too so pester your retailer.

 

found this little jewel floating around in cyberspace
polyurethanes vs recorsinol

ABSTRACT
One-part polyurethane wood adhesives comprise a new class of general purpose consumer products. Manufacturers' claims of waterproof bonds brought many inquiries to the Forest Products Laboratory (FPL) from users constructing aircraft, boats, lawn furniture, and other laminated materials for outdoor use.

Although FPL has technical information on several types of polyurethane and isocyanate-based adhesives for wood, no information was available on this new class of adhesives. Four commercial polyure-thane adhesives, along with a resorcinol-formaldehyde adhesive to represent a standard of performance, were subjected to a series of industry-accepted tests that assess varying levels of bond strength and durability.

In bonds to yellow birch and Douglas-fir, the polyurethanes did not differ significantly from each other in their performance; as a group, though, their dry shear strengths showed that they were significantly stronger than the resorcinol. Dry wood failures by the polyurethanes were high and did not differ significantly from the resorcinol.

After three water-saturating procedures, wet shear strengths of polyurethanes and the resorcinol were statistically comparable. Wet wood failures, however, were very low among polyurethanes, which is a sharp contrast to the high wood failure by the resorcinol.

A moderately severe delamination test indicated varying levels of water resistance among the polyurethanes, but the resorcinol was completely resistant to delamination. A very severe cyclic delamination test caused severe delamination of polyurethane bonds. However, a recently discovered hy-droxymethylated resorcinol (HMR) coupling agent dramatically increased delamination resistance of polyurethane adhesives. In a test of resistance to deformation under static loads, polyurethane bonds withstood extreme exposures of temperature and relative humidity for 60 days without deformation.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1998/vick98b.pdf

enjoy

 

not so dangerous

and very usefull on all but steel, keep the guard at this angle, chase alloy welds, get rid surplus anything, , once you have this in your toolbox you will never live without they are essential for ally boatbuilding for weld prep
Best with air tool, as airtools stall if you do something silly
available in 5 and 4 inch tungsten, I have never lost a tooth, about one hundred NZ dollars using dead flat you can skim surfaces Excellent for digging out glue lines,

 

I think Gorilla Glue is a one part polyurethane, these glues are gap filling because they expand into the joint but lose strength if they are made to expand too much. Nice to work with and cleanup is a snap as the fully expanded glue is just a weak foam, but it costs more than epoxy ...

Titebond also has a polyurethane glue, haven't tried it. Titebond II and III are PVA type glues, I understand.

 

ahhh Lazy, that is the little sucker i was talking about on another posting regarding cutting curves....a most useful tool indeed, but not for the feint hearted....used fearlessly, it is simply superb for all sorts of roughing off.
Ya got ta luv it!

 

wut ta hell is it called?,,,i want a few,,hehehe,,,dat looks FUN,hehehe

 

Much,

It is just a 4" angle grinder with a carbide tipped 32T blade on it.

 

thanks man,,,,,i aint never seen 1 of those blades used,,,,and it looks as much fun as a "saws-all".

 

I have never had so much fun since the pigs ate my little brother!

 

Nice looking blade, vicious little sucker in the wrong hands. It's about the same size as I use (85 mm) for cutting ply panels, but that's in an electric panel saw, very precise but the guard is a pain, always in the way. Maybe I should take it off and go unprotected, provided I don't catch something. I don't have air but I'm starting to wish I had, more power to weight and better manners than electric.

I checked out the saws-all (sawzall?); nice idea but a carbide blade will go through most stuff. My thin-kerf finish blade acidentally went through a couple of 1/4 SS bolts, happened so fast that it was done before I realised what I was doing. I was pissed off as that balade is only used for boat building normally but it still cuts as well as ever. Mind you, it cost more than the hand-held electric saw that it's mounted in. The blades the thing.

I was the little brother in our family but we didn't have pigs, just turkeys. The ******** used to chase me. But I digress ... don't we all; what does all this have to do with scarf joints anyway?

"Dances with Turkeys"

 

ya,,,the swazall ( reciprocating saw,, i think its real name) will go through EVERYTHING,,hehe
maybe thats why everyone at work started yelling and running whenever they saw me with 1,,hehe
if Landyz, and lazeyz tells me i HAVE to have a guard,,,,,im guessing its time for a new grinder anywayz hehe
and oh ya,,, scarf joints,,,,, my advice,,,,,Pay PAR to cut em fer me ,,ehhe < see Beanzy,, i stayed on topic hehe

 

we call it a meet axe, in my early years I had some big chunks cut out of me, , maybe a few screws missing

 

ya I took all the guard's off my saws early on in my shipwrights world
you just need to watch when you set em down so they dont go for a run across the floor
and keep the rookies away from em

one of the turkey's