Plug,Mold,Skiff

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by southdade skiff, Jan 29, 2017.

  1. southdade skiff
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    Location: miami FL

    southdade skiff Junior Member

  2. southdade skiff
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    southdade skiff Junior Member

    No roving was used at all only 1708 and csm
     
  3. southdade skiff
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    southdade skiff Junior Member

    Skiff drafts 5inches in mud 6 inches in sand. The 20 hp Suzuki is a great and is ligher than the 25 2stroke. I am going to build a second skiff with a different lamination schedule for hull and transom. I shoting to knock off 50 pounds of hull weight get my draft down to 5inches in sand. Also the draft numbers are with 2 fisher men and gear gas
     
  4. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    You don't need 5 and 6# foam, that can go down to 2#.

    Don't go from 1708 to 1208, go the other way, use 2408 and fewer layers.

    You don't need so much CSM, one layer and then the stitched fabrics.

    You could also cut it down from 1.5 oz CSM to 1 oz, or even 3/4 oz.

    You aren't going to affect the strength much, but you'll cut down on the weight.
     
  5. southdade skiff
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    southdade skiff Junior Member

    3/4 csm thin 2408 will print through really bad already as it is if I use a dark color on my skiff the 1708 will print through
     
  6. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    You wanted light, you didn't say good cosmetics were desired, but that's why at first I just said to cut down on the layers of CSM, one layer of 1.5 oz is plenty. You can choose a resin that will give you much better cosmetics, you could also pick a stronger one, then there are blends that will achieve both. People will use something like 1208 0r 1708 right behind the CSM, then go to 2408. This will be lighter than multiple layers of 1208.

    These are the compromises every builder of boats runs into and needs to determine the balance of each for their exact needs, cosmetics, weight, durability, performance and cost.

    I frequently have customers tell me they want the best finish (cosmetics) they can get and they ask me how to achieve it. I tell them we can make the surface almost perfect, but it's time and money intensive to get there. I make panels with them on glass, this gives us a close to perfect mold surface, then we use many different combinations of gel coat, barrier coat, resin, catalyst, veil, CSM, cores, and fabrics. They then know how much time money and effort are involved with each surface profile, now I have them choose the surface they like best for effort involved, few pic the best finish.
     
  7. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    Test panel Korea first pic.JPG Test panel Korea zoom.jpg Test panel Korea zoom.jpg [Here's a test panel I made in Korea recently to show what different layup schedules do to the surface profile.

    The first one is right after we de-molded it, the second one is what it looked like after being out in the sun through several heating and cooling cycles.

    It's hard to see in the pics, but there are several different combinations of fabrics and techniques that result in different surface profiles. The last pic is just a close up of a bad area.
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2017
  8. ondarvr
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    ondarvr Senior Member

    These were taken at the training class I did in Korea, eight days of tooling and refinishing.
    Korea class pic 2.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  9. southdade skiff
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    southdade skiff Junior Member

    Wow the the panels are excellent. I'm not doing multiple layers of 1208 one layer of 1208, the Prototype boat was one layer 3/4 chop strand mat two layers of an 1 1/2 csm and one layer of 1708 total. I just want to replace the 1708 with the 1208 and go to a higher foam density in the floor 8 pound instead of 5 pound and then just bulkheads instead of stringers. The bulkheads will be one inch thick and they'll have 1708 on them
     
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2017
  10. southdade skiff
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    southdade skiff Junior Member

    So I got my cap mold almost ready hope to get 2 parts out of it mast plug and a cap for next hull. The tables made out of melamine join together with Domino's and pocket screws with tape over the seam and the sides are made of dry erase board and I just use latex silicone around the entire rim for the radius. The wood blocks are wrapped in three layers of masking tape the dry erase board would not turn the tight radiuses
     

  11. southdade skiff
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    southdade skiff Junior Member

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