please recommend a paint safe to use on aluminum

Discussion in 'Materials' started by the brain, Oct 15, 2016.

  1. the brain
    Joined: Sep 2016
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    the brain Senior Member

    please recommend a paint safe to use on aluimin/vinale

    I plan to paint the interia of my StarCraft crusier the outside paint is I believe a acillic type paint 40 years old and will remain.

    I tried some paint on the bow and it looks terriable tried it on the inside same result I grinded down to bare aluimin then primed w/ self ech primer let primer dry in sun for a few days then painted.

    Thanks
     

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  2. JSL
    Joined: Nov 2012
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    JSL Senior Member

    go to a marine paint manufacturer (International, etc). They will have the paint and the preparation instructions.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2016
  3. gonzo
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    gonzo Senior Member

    You can use just about any topcoat. How are you planning on applying it?
     
  4. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

    probablley apply w/ a brush. a friend that paints cars for a living told me that these big aluimin boats where painted from the factory w/ brushes and rollers .
     
  5. mydauphin
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    mydauphin Senior Member

    It is all about the prep... I personally ballast them, wash them with acid, then zinc chromate wash, then zinc-chromate paint, then epoxy primer/fairing compound, then either special bottom coat or top coat. How you apply paint doesn't matter. I personally like brushes, it gives a thick coat, and you can control the flow better. Of course, it is slower, but when you are dealing with very expensive paint it works. BTW... all of the above I mention is expensive stuff. And most good marine paint is close to $100 a gallon. But the results are worth it.

    Ok, then how to do it cheaply... sand down old paint, only what is bad. Use a good etching primer for cars, the professional stuff that you mix. Then spray with a good car paint, again the kind you mix. It won't last forever but it will look decent until it peels.

    Try not to sand it too much unless it is really bad, you don't want to make your boat skin thinner than it is. And if you have an AL boat, read up on galvanic corrosion. You have to become an expert on it. A penny in your bilge will open a hole in it... Very quickly, no BS. Copper and stray currents can kill your boat.
     
  6. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

  7. ChrisN67
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    ChrisN67 Senior Member

    I painted my drives; at first i thought zinc chromate coating was appropriate but in fact zinc chromate passivization is NOT recommended below the water line.
    Best solution that I used was:
    Profile with sand blast or sandpaper
    Within 30 minutes; apply 2-3 coats of epoxy primer like AwlGrip 545
    Apply several layers of Interprotect anti Osmotic (double strike on chines)
    2-3 layers of quality polyester urethane top coat or antifouling

    That is what I did on my aluminum drives. Very important to get the primer on the aluminum within 30 minutes prior to the formation of an oxide layer.
     

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  8. kingmaster

    kingmaster Previous Member

  9. ChrisN67
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    ChrisN67 Senior Member

    ????

    1. All the products utilized are epoxy based.
    2. THe company you recommended does not make coatings for below the water line. Their products would be inferior to most any commercial products designed for below the waterline.
    3. In my experience the key to painting aluminum for BWL is to skip the sacrificial zinc oxide coating and get a strong epoxy primer within minutes of profiling the aluminum.
    Ultimately the best solution was 3 layers Awlgrip 545, then 3 layers Interprotect, then one layer 545 then Awlgrip Polyester urethane topcoat.

    3 years without an issue. Anyplace the paint has been subjected to mechanical stress (edges of drive socket housing) I applied black 5200 on the seam.
     
  10. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member

  11. pauloman
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    pauloman Epoxy Vendor

    you need to use an mcu (moisture cured urethane) as the base coat. there are several aluminum based mcu coatings. Aluthane is maybe that only one that uses 100% urethane resin system. google mcu coatings
     
  12. PAR
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    I thought of you Paul, when I saw this post, but you beat me to it. I'll second the Aluthane recommendation, though I have issues with Chris's advice to blast, wait 30 minutes then paint. Aluminum will immediately begin to oxidize after blasting, so paint as soon as you get the surface clean of media. In fact for best results, use a ScotchBrite pad in the wet paint, as it's applied, to insure the aluminum is raw and not oxidized. You can smooth the primer after it's dry and the aluminum is protected. The aluminum oxide that get's tossed up in the application abating process, will remain in suspension until the paint cures, so not an issue.
     
  13. magipati
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    magipati New Member

    Hi In Canada i recomend The aints for all kind of metals from Glashield located in Chateaugay province of Québecé I Use it on steel, aluminum and fiberglass hulls even applied with a roll it comes shiny and i apply with a little over freezing point
    thanks
    Mike
     
  14. the brain
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    the brain Senior Member


  15. pauloman
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    pauloman Epoxy Vendor

    thanks par --- my recommendation would be the aluthane primer (because it is an aluminum based mcu coating) - you can actually 'off label' thicken it to fill pits - then wet sand super smooth and for a gloss look - rattle can shiny metallic silver on top of the aluthane. Maybe an optional rattle can clear coat or a 2 part poly (acrylic poly uv plus) over the gloss silver look. Not unfrendly heavy metals
     
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