Please help! Unknown mini speed boat

Discussion in 'Powerboats' started by Hunter Krol, Jul 28, 2020.

  1. Hunter Krol
    Joined: Jul 2020
    Posts: 1
    Likes: 1, Points: 1
    Location: New York

    Hunter Krol New Member

    5BBB21A4-0F13-4458-A553-68EEF93A57F5.jpeg 7477FA05-0154-454E-B081-C7716DE12905.jpeg 4A948211-C78F-458B-AF62-51C91959FD41.jpeg Anyone seen this style boat before or happen to know what it is? Pulled it out of the brush, father got from a family friend that sank it and been sitting about 10 years. Decided to bring her back to shape but have absolutely no idea how old it is or the make. All fiberglass body, little under 11ft long & has shoebox hull joint design. Kinda similar to the old Tamco Lark models but no luck yet.
    Any restore ideas greatly appreciated!! (Gotta separate the hull and cap because the body is separating pretty bad at the bow and starboard, looks like the joint was riveted previously with some adhesive I assume)
    Let me note, this is definitely NOT a Donzi LOL
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2020
    DogCavalry likes this.
  2. philSweet
    Joined: May 2008
    Posts: 2,696
    Likes: 458, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 1082
    Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC

    philSweet Senior Member

    The typical shoebox joint on a boat like this was done using mat and polyester resin. You took the hull, laid 2 layers of wet mat on the joint, put the deck on, then riveted on the rub rail extrusion through both hull and deck. Results varied widely. The deck flange was often too thin to properly bridge between the rivets.

    Before parting the hull/deck joint, build a good cradle and secure the hull to it. The hull and deck will want to warp when parted, and the hull will be very floppy without the deck. Use a frame about every two feet on a strongback.

    To get this apart, remove the rub rail rubber exposing the riveted extrusion. Drill out all the rivets, and discard the extrusion.

    Try to split the joint with a putty knife or something a bit stouter like a painter's scraper. This is the easy way, so don't give up on this, work it until it just wont go anymore and use plenty of rubber mallet. If some of it is good and properly stuck, get an angle grinder and a thin diamond wheel and worry out the bits that wouldn't split.

    Once apart, you need to do a good job of fairing the faying surfaces, which basically involves removing all the mat that was used in the joint. Belt sander on the hull, light pressure, 36 grit. Eight inch wheel on the deck, 40 grit.

    Assembly is same as was done originally. Use a new extrusion and different holes after aligning things with the old holes. You can run drywall screws from the inside to the outside and remove them as you go.

    There are also glues that will work these days, but I haven't glued any deck joints so I will leave that for others to discuss.
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