Useless glue and sanding stripplanking method

I've performed some test of bead and cove stripplanking with 19 mm thick and 29 mm width strips and 25 mm radius. I still have some steps.
How can I profile my strips in order not to have these steps ?
My goal is to minimise the need in glue to fill the gap (if a use rectangular section strips) and the sanding (to reduce steps).
Knowing that my project is a 55' sailing yacht you surely understand the impacts of my choice.

Thanks

Trim

 

Trim,

The steps are there because you try to fix a square form on a curved surface (2 ways). That makes that at some locations the step will be very small and at others a bit bigger. You can not fully get ride of them.
Welcome to boatbuilding and happy sanding.

 

Make one side of the plank/strake hollow, the other convex and less you have to sand.

 

There are so many wonderful wood working tools that will make quick work of the high spots on a stripped hull. The inside is more difficult but I still only reach for the sander as a last touch up. Work with the wood not against it, I’m not talking about some kind of Zen stuff here, but sharp edge tools are much faster than any sander and you feel good at the end of the day instead of spitting out dust.

Gary

 

Strip planking

To minimise steps between planks I use a trapezoidal section.
I install the planks dry (no glue) leaving a V open on the outside of the hull. I find easier to control the inside
edges. In areas of tight curves I may use a rectangular section. The gap outide of the planks should be around 5 mm. Then I don gloves ,overall and respirator and trowel the thickened epoxy inside the V.
It's quicker, safer and uses less epoxy that you may think.
Marco.