Pipe dope for seams?

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by BHOFM, Jun 10, 2009.

  1. BHOFM
    Joined: Jun 2008
    Posts: 457
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    Location: usa

    BHOFM Senior Member

    My great grand father built simple jon boats and used pipe dope on
    all the joints. I know it was white lead and linseed oil, but how would
    the new, non lead work for the same application? Has any one tried it?

    I am looking at building an eight foot simple boat using pine, construction
    lumber. Buying a bunch of 2X4s and resawing them to 5/8sX3 1/2 for
    the planking and thought about using pipe dope on all the joints..

    I also thought about using linseed oil and bees wax as the finish.

    This boat will get some rough use and I want to be able to touch it
    up and go.

    I am thinking 7' 10'X43"X14", it needs to fit inside a small utility trailer.
    7' oars, trolling motor. Calm water, beachable. Sharp bow, flat bottom
    small keel full lengh about 4".

    I need to do this boat for about $75?

    Your thoughts!
     
  2. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
    Posts: 2,614
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    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    with 2x4 you propably have the grain wrong way in the middle of your boards so if you might find smth like 2x8 to saw smth like 3x5/8 :)
    Thou I don't know how good timber you can get..
     
  3. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
    Posts: 19,126
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    Teddy's right, you'll have flat sawn planking if you cut 2x4's that way. You could rip 2x10's or 12's down the centerline, then mill the resulting quarter sawn stock into suitable planking. Another advantage of doing it this way is the larger stock has to come from older trees, which will have fewer defects.

    Instead of an oil and bees wax finish, might I recommend a shellac finish. The 3 pound stuff available at hardware stores may work, assuming it doesn't have anything else in it (usually does). You can buy shellac flakes from a number of woodworker supply sources on line. Mix to your preferred consistency.

    In the seams, you could use a 9 pound mix of shellac as the sealer. This is a common and very traditional way of doing things.

    Of course, none of the traditional methods really are effective, compared to modern sealants and especially next to epoxy. In fact, if you used epoxy, you could eliminate most, if not all of the internal structural elements, within the boat. Yep, no beveling chine logs or stringers, no frames or gussets, etc. This saves a lot of work and the results are waterproof, not water resistant like traditional methods.
     
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