Panga design / Build opinion wanted

Discussion in 'Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building' started by FUELGUY, May 1, 2015.

  1. FUELGUY
    Joined: May 2015
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    Location: Tarpon Springs, FL

    FUELGUY Junior Member

    I've aquired this hull which is some sort of panga/dory hybrid of some sort. The owner attempted a raised deck build but I plan on removing everything to the outer skin. My vision is a low, teak deck, lime green paint, a tiller handle 40-60hp and a teak chair to drive from. Just my little island hopper.

    My question is, this looks to be some sort of a semi-displacement hull? I don't need to go fast but would like a dry, stable ride. Maybe a 25 mph top cruise speed. Those of you with design experience, by the look of this hull is it possible?With some extra weight and low floor? Or does it look like I'll need to remove the "keel" on the rear third of the hull and flatten it out? Possibly add reverse chines? Any input would be great. I plan on putting some time into the clean appearance once I plan my hull modifications if any. Let me know your thoughts!

    Photos attached
     

    Attached Files:

  2. FUELGUY
    Joined: May 2015
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    Location: Tarpon Springs, FL

    FUELGUY Junior Member

    BTW that's not me or my kid. I live in the Clearwater, FL area. We have a bunch of little sandbars and restaurants to hop around where I live. Just trying to build an island hopper/river cruiser
     
  3. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Do you know what size engine was on it last ? A side view out of the water might help.
     
  4. FUELGUY
    Joined: May 2015
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    FUELGUY Junior Member

    I don't have any other photos unfortunately. Picking it up on the 15th. Two owners ago "said" it cruised stable at 20 mph with a 40hp Tohatsu. The floor has since been raised and built from nidacore. I'm somewhat experienced in fiberglass repair but not hull design. I can see that it's some sort of semi-displacement hull? If possible I'd like to modify/improve the hull before I water test. If it's at all possible to gather advice from photos.
     
  5. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    If you keep it light, you greatly improve the chances of it having a satisfactory performance, add a lot of weight, and with that chine-less shape, it will stop as if shot.
     
  6. FUELGUY
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    Location: Tarpon Springs, FL

    FUELGUY Junior Member

    Never thought of keeping it light but it does make sense. My original thoughts were to add more weight, lower the floor, possibly flatten the keel and glass in some chines. Your view makes sense though. And sounds a lot easier to do!
     
  7. Mr Efficiency
    Joined: Oct 2010
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    It reminds me a little ( maybe more than a little !) of the boats used by mullet fishermen here who would shoot their nets in a semi-circle on the surf beaches in winter, as strong offshore winds brought the schools in to hug the shoreline. They usually had an inboard with the prop in a tunnel, but the hull shape quite similar to yours. I'd keep it light initially and see how it goes, you can always add more to it later, but it would be a shame to go to the trouble of adding a lot to it, straight up, only to find it wasn't up to the job of carrying it all.
     
  8. FUELGUY
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    FUELGUY Junior Member

    There are a lof of "trembley" mullet skiffs in my neck of the woods as well. I may try to water test it with a small outboard to get a feel for it, but my material decision was going to be based on weight needed (wood or composite). Maybe I'll let the sleeping dog lie, after all it did perform in some sense of the word, BEFORE the floor was raised. Hopefully lowering the floor is my only headache.
     
  9. Mr Efficiency
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    Mr Efficiency Senior Member

    Keep the sole (floor) as low as practicable, helps stability, helps keep people from falling out of the boat !
     
  10. yofish

    yofish Previous Member

    Pretty shape.
     
  11. FUELGUY
    Joined: May 2015
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    FUELGUY Junior Member

    Well, I finally got to tinker with it a little. After cutting out the floor (which was done very poorly), I've gotten into the stringer system which doesn't look too bad. Even standing in the bottom of the floor, it is very unstable. After discussing the option with a local boat builder, our plan is to flip the hull and glass in 2'x8' mirrored parts to basically make the rear 1/3 a skiff. We are going to use a small skiff as a mold and make the parts, then glue and glass them. Probably foam fill from the inside when done. I like the authenticity and shape so much I have to give it a try. Also, the floor will be lowered quite a bit just in case.
     
  12. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    gonzo Senior Member

    To get more top end speed, lifting chine strakes would help.
     
  13. paxfish
    Joined: Dec 2014
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    paxfish Junior Member

    You're gonna get wet, Brother. It is a Panga attribute. Spray strakes etc might help a little, but it is sort of the nature of the beast....
     
  14. FUELGUY
    Joined: May 2015
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    FUELGUY Junior Member

    I was warned about getting wet, thankfully this boat is only to run the flats to the island and cruise the river. Shouldn't ever see anything more than an extremely light chop.
     

  15. FUELGUY
    Joined: May 2015
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    FUELGUY Junior Member

    IMG_3385.JPG IMG_3386.JPG IMG_3388.JPG IMG_3387.JPG Finally got back on this and plan on finishing this month. So, I flipped the boat and created a "flat area" for the rear 8 feet... our goal was to add stability which it did. During the test drive it ran 22 mph with a 55 horse tiller. Not as fast as I hoped but I plan on using a new 75 horse.

    Originally I mounted the motor right to the transom.. it seemed like the motor was too far in the water so we made a "jack plate" to test.

    Now, water shoots up and floods the boat over the transom from the center of the jackplate.... I'm getting a rooster tail effect created by the hull which hits the lower unit and forces higher and higher with speed until it floods the boat. I could always mount the motor in the original poisition but it seemed turbulent and wet.

    Based on the pictures I'm trying to figure out how to modify the stern to calm the turbulence. Maybe I need to build a 2x4 "tail" at the water line the width of the hull to sort of screet the water surface? Or maybe cut the keel? I'm guessing the fact that it was originally semi displacement is the reason I'm getting a "rooster tail" from the center of the stern while running.
     
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