philSweet
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Steve, this post from an earlier thread may help you with FreeShip and developability.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/bo...on-two-cones-two-planes-51910.html#post713716
<Edit> I seem to have missed your earlier question. As far as my experience building goes, I did things entirely backwards. I built a couple of plywood boats in my 20's before I had a clue about any of this. They were fairly close copies of other boats, built ply on frame, and I wondered why the ply didn't want to lay flat on the straight frames. So I looked into the matter and bought some books on boat building and lofting. Much later, I got hold of Plyboats Software and that has lead me into the curious world of free software and boat forums. I basically grew up in a woodshop, so my interest in the shapes that the software produces has a lot more to do with the feel of the panels than the exact shape. I use the panel shapes from software for designing plate nestings, and I part out the panels with an allowance even when doing stitch and glue. In particular, I will leave a generous length allowance. The width allowance can be pretty small - 1/4" is plenty. The final panel shapes are governed by the frames.
What I can tell you is that it can work just fine, but getting your head around the math behind it all is certainly worth doing. As I said, I went into this with a pretty good idea of how wood behaved, so I was looking more for assistance than epiphanies and cut files. It's not that I don't trust the software, but things move around in the shop, and plywood is not as tweakable as a plank on frame, especially after it has been epoxied in place. I believe the vast majority of the deviation from design to build occurs in the shop. These methods are not idiot proof, but they can be adequate in skilled hands, and that is what engineering is all about.
For small boats, such as a stitch and glue dinghy or skiff, I would have no problem at all precutting 5 panels based on panel offsets from FreeShip if I had done the mesh, leaving the laps 1/4 wild and cutting the faying edge exact, and assembling over some scrapwood temporary frames. Plan on a 1" allowance on length. Start stitching amidship and work to the ends. Stitch the entire boat if it is smallish, then dab, pull, and fillet. This is not the easiest way for a first-timer to build a boat, though. I think a ply on frame build from an established design is far easier and more intuitive.
http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/bo...on-two-cones-two-planes-51910.html#post713716
<Edit> I seem to have missed your earlier question. As far as my experience building goes, I did things entirely backwards. I built a couple of plywood boats in my 20's before I had a clue about any of this. They were fairly close copies of other boats, built ply on frame, and I wondered why the ply didn't want to lay flat on the straight frames. So I looked into the matter and bought some books on boat building and lofting. Much later, I got hold of Plyboats Software and that has lead me into the curious world of free software and boat forums. I basically grew up in a woodshop, so my interest in the shapes that the software produces has a lot more to do with the feel of the panels than the exact shape. I use the panel shapes from software for designing plate nestings, and I part out the panels with an allowance even when doing stitch and glue. In particular, I will leave a generous length allowance. The width allowance can be pretty small - 1/4" is plenty. The final panel shapes are governed by the frames.
What I can tell you is that it can work just fine, but getting your head around the math behind it all is certainly worth doing. As I said, I went into this with a pretty good idea of how wood behaved, so I was looking more for assistance than epiphanies and cut files. It's not that I don't trust the software, but things move around in the shop, and plywood is not as tweakable as a plank on frame, especially after it has been epoxied in place. I believe the vast majority of the deviation from design to build occurs in the shop. These methods are not idiot proof, but they can be adequate in skilled hands, and that is what engineering is all about.
For small boats, such as a stitch and glue dinghy or skiff, I would have no problem at all precutting 5 panels based on panel offsets from FreeShip if I had done the mesh, leaving the laps 1/4 wild and cutting the faying edge exact, and assembling over some scrapwood temporary frames. Plan on a 1" allowance on length. Start stitching amidship and work to the ends. Stitch the entire boat if it is smallish, then dab, pull, and fillet. This is not the easiest way for a first-timer to build a boat, though. I think a ply on frame build from an established design is far easier and more intuitive.