Paint Vs Varnish (Wooden Hull)

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Josh Goodswen, Nov 18, 2021.

  1. missinginaction
    Joined: Aug 2007
    Posts: 1,081
    Likes: 240, Points: 63, Legacy Rep: 512
    Location: New York

    missinginaction Senior Member

    Just happened to drop in. Glad I read through it as I think I can make some suggestions based on real experience. Regarding an auxiliary outboard.

    I actually did this back in 2017. It was the best improvement I made to my restored 1973 Silverton 25 sedan. I'll answer your questions based on my experience. First some quick background information.

    Hull 25.5' , 10.5' beam, displacement about 8,000 lbs., main engine 302 Ford, velvet drive w/ Walter v-drive.

    In 2017 I installed a Yamaha T9.9 "high thrust" outboard to my rig. I installed it on the port side of my swim platform. I purchased a long shaft engine with power tilt. I was building a new swim platform for it so I was able to get the platform at the proper height. You'll want to measure carefully so that the outboard's propeller, when tilted down, or lowered into the water if you're using a transom mount, is below the bottom of the hull. This will provide undisturbed water flow to the outboards propeller. Your outboard will perform much better in reverse as well. Lets see if I can find a photo or two.
    IMG_20210803_200015354.jpg 20210815_173041.jpg Pearl Aft.jpg


    The first year I ran the OB I tried a few experiments. There was plenty of power to push me along at displacement speeds up to about 4.5 knots. First, I tried steering with the main rudder while locking the outboard straight forward. This worked , but not very well. If I encountered a crosswind of more than about 10 or 12 knots I could not maintain a course. The wind would blow the bow down. There were also issues with water current. So, on fairly calm days with little current I was OK. Steering, even then was leisurely, you had to anticipate your turns.

    One thing I noticed was that if I used the tiller on the outboard to steer the boat while leaving the main rudder in the neutral position I got great performance.

    Armed with that knowledge I made a call to the people at Garmin Technology. one thing led to another and I ended up installing a Garmin TR-1 autopilot. These AP's are made to control the outboard. Garmin doesn't make the TR-1 anymore but they now supply the Reactor 40 Kicker Autopilot.

    Now I place the main rudder in a straight forward position and use the autopilot to steer the boat using the outboard. The difference was like day and night.

    I can use my outboard alone for trolling and get great performance. More importantly I can use it in tandem with my main engine. It works very well as a heading hold autopilot on rivers and open water. Garmin made a wireless remote for the AP so I have steering and throttle anywhere on the boat from a little controller that hangs around my neck. I do have to go back to the transom to shift the outboard. Oh well, nothings perfect.

    Crossing a large body of water like Lake Ontario is a snap. You can plot a course on the chart plotter and use the plotter to control the outboard, which steers the boat. I've made crossings that take about 6/7 hours without ever touching the wheel. You have to keep an eye on things but not being tied down by steering is wonderful.

    So the bottom line is that I would highly recommend that you consider installing a high thrust auxiliary and team it with an autopilot and compatible chart plotter.

    Good luck with your project! Have a great Christmas season.

    MIA
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2021

  2. Josh Goodswen
    Joined: Nov 2021
    Posts: 16
    Likes: 3, Points: 3
    Location: Noosaville QLD

    Josh Goodswen Junior Member

    Action, thank you so much for that experienced rundown - heeps of good guidence there!
    Thanks for sharing your boat pictures too, lovely craft.
    Have a great Chrismas boating season and best wishes from Australia!
     
    missinginaction likes this.
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