Overarm router

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by Eagle Boats, Jan 4, 2008.

  1. Eagle Boats
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: NEW YORK

    Eagle Boats Senior Member

    I am going to start building wood rudders and teak hatchboards. I need tools that will build them with the least amount of fuss but maintain a high degree of finish and consistency on a production basis. I have an industrial size shaper, but I am wondering if an overarm pin router would be better. Any insight would be much appreciated.
     
  2. john92021
    Joined: Feb 2008
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    Location: san diego

    john92021 New Member

    pin router

    If you are going to be doing production what you really want is a CNC router. They have come down in price over the past few years and pay for themselves. I employee on a CNC can do the work of 3 working by hand, and you can lease one for the price of 1 employee so you are still ahead.
     
  3. Eagle Boats
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: NEW YORK

    Eagle Boats Senior Member

    John, thanks for your response. I build fiberglass boats with a minimum of wood trim. I could not justify the expense based on the amount of work that would be necessary. In addition, space is at a premium at my shop. The pin router has a smaller footprint.

    Due to many shops switching over to CNC, there seems to be a lot of pin routers on the market. I have a chance to buy a SCMI R9 in very good condition for $900. The price seems too good to pass up.

    I will still investigate CNC machines, as I am a firm believer in using tools that will reduce the amount of manhours it takes to perform an operation. When time, and especially money permits, I may go for it. I would like to hear about your experiences with CNC.
     

  4. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
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    Location: maine

    alan white Senior Member

    The hatchboards are easily done with a rabbeting bit on a common router, hand held, and then stacked, clamped, and cross-cut both sides with a fine-tooth carbide saw blade on a skilsaw run against a clamped-on angled template.
    A rudder requires bevelling, and a jig can be made that uses an air or electric (offset grinder/polisher, etc.) and a vee that the rudders are drawn through. A 36 grit disc makes short work of the bevel, which can be finished with a hand held 6" RO sander.
    The leading edge can be shaped with a round-over router bit, hand held.
    Unless thousands are being made, stay low-tech and stay away from expensive equipment. It isn't cost-effective at typical sailboat production runs unless you will be competing with the very biggest competitors.

    Alan
     
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