On to Paint!

Discussion in 'Materials' started by CatBuilder, May 11, 2012.

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  1. hoytedow
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    hoytedow Wood Butcher

    I know it was a great learning experience watching as he built his boat. Too bad we couldn't see it to the launch.
     
  2. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    Due to his attitude and insults,he's going to have to find out the hard way there's a flaw-and maybe two-in something he's doing with the boat.

    Why should I help someone who calls me a 'know nothing desk jockey'?
     
  3. mydauphin
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    mydauphin Senior Member

    Who you talking about? Oh, did catbuilder leave? I missed it.
     
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  4. Charly
    Joined: Dec 2009
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    Charly Senior Member

    Because you would also be helping many other onlooker builders or builder prospects.
     
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  5. Herman
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    Herman Senior Member

    Indeed, you never know who finds your topics using Google.
     
  6. WestVanHan
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member

    Then let them ask....
     
  7. Herman
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    Herman Senior Member

    Not everyone is as "vocal" as the ones posting here. I bet 80% of the human visitors are "lurkers". Perhaps even more.
     
  8. waikikin
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    waikikin Senior Member

    Google "stuffiminto" to find CB & his project & forum..........
     
  9. bntii
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    bntii Senior Member


    More...:

    Currently Active Users: 656 (28 members and 628 guests) 7/8/2012 8:00 am EST

    Currently Active Users: 741 (22 members and 719 guests) 7/8/2012 10:30 EST
     
  10. WestVanHan
    Joined: Aug 2009
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    WestVanHan Not a Senior Member


    Indeed:I did just that and the things I found fit right in with his postings here. Seems he owns that site...and many uncomplimentary things said about him but anyways-who cares???

    Have a great month gentlemen,I am off to Seymour and Belize inlets...fishing, crabbing and in general exploring the areas.

    An example..not my site BTW:
    http://markbc.net/2011/08/16/july-17-around-to-rivers-inlet-and-out/
     
  11. groper
    Joined: Jun 2011
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    groper Senior Member

    im at a point where i need to start thinking about paint also...

    So ive been to see a few of the local paint suppliers and asked for their advice, however i get the sneaking suspicion that they simply would like to sell me alot more paint than i actually need... which makes sense as they are in the business of making money.

    They are telling me i need to apply a primer which i dont sand, then another easy sanding high build primer (to flatten things out), then my top coat 2 pot PU. But my susbstrate is epoxy laminate, or epoxy barrier coated fairing comound - i dont see how this needs to be primed to get good adhesion? a good rough up and removal of any blush, almost anything should stick very well to this i would think, especially another epoxy coating.

    So why cant i just skip the first primer, and go straight to the epoxy high build, sand it flat, then top coat it with my 2 pot PU?
     
  12. bntii
    Joined: Jun 2006
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    bntii Senior Member

    On laminate and bog as you have:

    Sand out for key in of next coat which will be High Build.
    Sand this out with filling and fairing as needed, then apply light sanding primer such as 545.
    Sand this out spot filling of remaining pinholes with glazing compound and apply topcoats.

    Why not topcoat on the high build?:

    -Too much filling and fairing is generally needed on the High Build layer in addition to exposing the bog in places while sanding out to permit a topcoat application on the required uniform substrate.
    -High Build does not have the surface characteristics for a thin film topcoat such as the two pack lp paints.

    Generally- one wants the fine grained uniform layer of your final primer sanded out to ~320 under the topcoat.
    The 545 primer does not have the film thickness to do much more than accept the final sand out.
    So if the surface still requires filing and fairing via fairing primer a High Build type of primer is needed first.

    It's a judgement call- with experience you will be able to look at the surface and see if you can get it with a single layer of 545, two layers of 545 using the first to sand and fair, or the full monte with a layer of High Build followed by 545 and perhaps even a second coat if you burn through the first while sanding...

    Don't apply lp paints on a quilt work of materials- have a uniform layer of finely sanded primer under the stuff or you may be caught out as surface irregularities will really show through these paints, particularly in dark colors.
     
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  13. mydauphin
    Joined: Apr 2007
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    mydauphin Senior Member

    SO true. Seen a boat that looks like camouflage, so arrears dull, others brighter. Also make sure you spray one side in one shot. It prevents application differences.
     
  14. Silver Raven
    Joined: Oct 2011
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    Silver Raven Senior Member

    Bntii - I've read what 'groper' asked - but did you ???

    I've sprayed vessels for over 45 years in Australia & I've never in my while life read such a confused - over the top involved - manner of painting a vessel.

    Your suggestion of 'needing' to use 320 grt - is just not necessary - unless you want to polish the undersurface before painting the final coats of 'poly-u 2 pack' - - which is not all that good an idea. 240 grt will do just fine. I sure hope 'groper' goes down his road & not down yours. Are you an ex-paint rep ??? or just a well meaning amature ???

    'groper' - you are correct - the local chaps - are most deffinately - trying to sell you 'lots & lots' of extra paint. Give me a PM & I'll drop down & wave a gun around - just for the fun of - helping you & keeping my old-eye in. Without creating any over-spray either. Ciao, james
     

  15. bntii
    Joined: Jun 2006
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    bntii Senior Member


    Sure- what products are you using?

    I shoot with Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 and Imron.
    I used to sand out to 220 and found with all three products that a DA swirl was still visible through these paints as they pull so thin on cure. I now sand out to 320 and am good to go.

    As to the rest- I don't understand why he was advised to use a primer under the High Build.
    The rest of my post states to use as much product as is required by the surface one is starting with:

    Perhaps not my best post but there it is.

    I left out the last possible iteration which is no primer at all on sound gel coats or scuff and puff jobs on existing LP finishes.
    I recommend in almost all cases 545 under top coats even if you think you can get away without it on really clean hulls.
    It's a shame to do a clean shoot and see old names, cove lines etc print through on what appeared to be a clean, perfectly fair surface.

    Good day to you.
     
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