NOT Boat related by need fiberglass expertise (pool)

Discussion in 'All Things Boats & Boating' started by dollerprod2, Jul 17, 2015.

  1. dollerprod2
    Joined: Jul 2015
    Posts: 0
    Likes: 0, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 10
    Location: Central FL

    dollerprod2 New Member

    Hi, I'm lost about the current state of my pool and what I can do about it. I know this is a boating forum, please forgive me and would really appreciate any insight you can offer. You guys have expertise with these methods/materials.

    I bought a home last winter and have to be honest made a lot of 1st time homebuyer mistakes, I'm paying for it now.

    OK, onto it..

    I have what I believe to be a concrete/gunite pool that was resurfaced with a fiberglass shell (Don't know why that method instead of replaster) THIS IS WHERE I HAVE ZERO KNOWLEDGE OF PRODUCTS, PROCESS, ETC WHATEVER I AM LOOKING AT HERE.

    Please take a quick look at the pics and tell me if I am on the right track..



    In this picture, are we looking at the brownish/yellowish areas being
    the actual fiberglass shell? Which is being exposed because the gelcoat is wearing away? Is that what I'm looking on the surface - gelcoat?


    This is the chalkiness how it wipes off on your finger when you rub it.

    Finally, what are the "roller marks" you can see if you look close at the pool wall? How the gelcoat was applied? Paint?

    Questions :eek::
    1. Are the bownish/yellowish areas the fiberglass shell, which is right under the gelcoat?
    2. Are those "roller marks" you see in last from the application of the gelcoat over the fiberglass, or is it paint after the fact?
    3. What can I do about the chaulkiness being rubbed off when we are in the pool, walking on the bottom, rubbing the walls etc, it stirs up the pool cloudy and as you can see gets on your fingers and whatnot!! ?
    4. Can I paint this pool, just until I can recover financially enough to resurface properly? Can I "spot/local paint" the worn off areas where that brown shows through? If so, with what type of paint? Epoxy, acrylic, rubber???

    I know I'm asking a lot here but if someone with knowledge about this can offer a little ELI5 insight I'd be so grateful.
  2. alan white
    Joined: Mar 2007
    Posts: 3,731
    Likes: 122, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 1404
    Location: maine

    alan white Senior Member

    1.) That is fiberglass, yes.
    2.) It's impossible from here to tell if those are roller marks.
    3.) The chalkiness is what happened to the (paint? gel-coat?) that has broken down in the sunlight, something that happens to paint all the time. It must be sanded back to either raw fiberglass or its original color, indicating intact paint. It could be gel coat but it looks a bit thin to be, but I have installed those FG panels or a similar system in my misspent youth and the panels were gel-coated.
    4.) I recommend a good quality marine paint or "pool paint" if such an animal exists, which it most surely must.
    Sand first and roll on the new paint. No matter what, the paint will cost a lot. A lot per gallon ($40-$100) and probably a few gallons. Spot painting is a way to put off the inevitable for a year or two.
  3. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 2,700
    Likes: 420, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 506
    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    In a prior life I was a contractor doing that exact type of work.

    The reason for going glass and not plaster is if the pool leaks, or the structure is not in great shape, glassing solves a lot of issues palster can't, plus you tend to use less chemicals on a glass pool. It really works rather well.

    Gel coat can chalk, but epoxy pool paint chalks more like what I see in the pic, gel coat, if done correctly, lasts a very long time. It could still be gel coat, just not done well.

    The chalky surface needs to be removed or whatever you put over it won't last long, plus you need to determine if it's gel coat or epoxy. Epoxy will stick to most anything, gel coat will only bond well to gel coat or the original laminate.

    Epoxy typically looks and feels different to the touch, and when you grind it, it will also look like a painted on surface when you sand through it. Gel coat will look like it's part of the glass laminate as you grind, it will just change color, the bond line between the two won't be as distinct.

    Epoxy is a little bit easier to apply because the pot life is an hour or more, gel coat needs to be applied within about 15 minutes. Epoxy tends to chalk after a while, gel coat doesn't go on as smooth, but chalking isn't normally as big of an issue.

    When going with epoxy 80 grit sand paper works well, for gel coat 36 is better.
    1 person likes this.
  4. ondarvr
    Joined: Dec 2005
    Posts: 2,700
    Likes: 420, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 506
    Location: Monroe WA

    ondarvr Senior Member

    And yes, those are the roller marks, thicker areas last longer and are still showing as white.
  5. steve123
    Joined: Dec 2014
    Posts: 59
    Likes: 2, Points: 0, Legacy Rep: 20
    Location: China

    steve123 Junior Member

    Looks to me like the gelcoat didn't have wax solution in it !
    If a pool is lined with FRP then best is apply 2 gelcoats, the first coat is just gelcoat with the catalyist and direct a fan blowing into bottom of pool to remove styrene build up, let cure for 2-3 hours.
    The gelcoat will still feel a bit tacky but thats fine, the 2nd coat requires wax solution mixed in the gel along with the catalyist...still use fan to remove styrene fumes from bottom of pool.
    For Gelcoat you should add 2% Catalyist and same ammount wax solution for 2nd coat.
    Obviously you need to get back to bare FRP before you do this and wipe with dry cloth then vacuum out the dust.

  6. philSweet
    Joined: May 2008
    Posts: 2,479
    Likes: 274, Points: 83, Legacy Rep: 1082
    Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC

    philSweet Senior Member

    Unless the pool is 20 years old, the damage you see is 90% caused by poor chemistry control. After you fix the pool, buy a good book on pool chemistry. On second thought, buy it before you fix the pool. Not the little pamphlet that comes with the test kit - buy the 600 page book. Then you won't have to redo it again in 3 years.

    The earlier comment about a glass liner using less chemicals may be a bit misleading. It can under some circumstances, but it depends on the big picture. A lined pool is neither a Gunite/plaster pool nor a solid glass pool. It will have it's own water balance requirements, so the coating needs to work in a water balanced that way. None of this is rocket science and any reputable pool company can tell you what works best in your area.
Similar Threads
  1. Squidly-Diddly
  2. Floatingaway
  3. viking north
  4. zmfmd
  5. Sandith Thandasherry
  6. sdowney717
  7. masterdesign
  8. christoph le
  9. wet feet
  10. runinan
Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. Boat Design Net does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.