Northern Beaches Sydney, new boat build getting started

Gday Everyone,
I thought i might just quickly write a new thread in regards to my Boat build. Its a 22 foot cruiser called Mercury from Build a Boat. I have started lofting the frames and bulkheads on some 3mm MDF. Ill attach some pictures and if you have any information or can see anything I am doing wrong please feel free to point it out as I am a beginner in boat building.
I will keep this thread updated with my progress however slow it may be.

Well here is a couple of pictures to start

Oh yeah I am still wondering what sort of material to build it out of Mahogony or Oregan timber. HAs anyone got any info on the pros and cons of each type cost etc any help would be great

 

Hi, I am a shipwright with Sydney Harbour Boatbuilders so I will try to help you a bit here. Use Celery Top or Oregon for most framing members. Mahogany is not so easily obtained in Australia. For your brightwork, you will most likely want to go for teak, cedar or pacific maple/meranti depending on budget. The meranti can be stained and varnished to look like mahogany or teak, but is not as resistant to rot. That being said, I have seen it used successfully when protected properly with good workmaship and epoxy products. Good Luck
Carl Rickards
Carl Rickards Classic Boats/Sydney Harbour Boatbuilders

 

What ever you build it from make sure that its light. I mean not heavy. If you have a power boat you will kill it and end up with a dog .. Start NOW dont let anything on board too heavy.

I have a Seawind Ventura 44 and had it fitted with a Thai wood called mai yom hom, , I have no idea what that translates to. A red but very light wood.

Dont make furniture with 1/2 ply use teak faced 2/3 mm and brace it. If you don't you will be soooorrryy.

Dont say to yourself ,--oh its only one peice of wood,--its the sum of all the little peices of wood.

 

Gday Carl and Frosty,
thanks for the info. So it looks like i will be sticking with the oregan for the framing members. The brightwork you are talking about what is that exactly, is that the decking, bow, and trims things like that. And Frosty sounds like a good idea with the 2 - 3mm teak faced stuff. and brace it good iidea.
Thanks for all the info and will be sure to keep photos posted

Archie

 

To make even lighter fit out you dont need to ply the bare fibre glass with ply. If its a reasonable finish and not bumpy you can foam it with closed cell foam . Not the open crap stuff that turns into sand after 5 years.

Stick the foam on the hull and them vinyl of your choice. If the panel is too big stitch together. The corners are left un joined . What you do with those is cut some vynil about 1 inch wide and as long as you have, fold one side to the other side so that it joins in the midde and sew with two runs.

Super glue this into the corners of the rooms walls and cielings . It is very nice job and looks like its been stitched and fitted, like an expensive car interior.

Dont buy fitted mattresses ,buy cheap standards in the shop and cut open the cover then cut the foam with a sharp knife --re sew --easy job.

 

Gday everyone merry christmas,
I have a question hopefully someone will be able to help me out. I am building a 22 foot motor cruiser I have lofted the plans on my garage floor and want to start building.

The frame is the problem. The plans I have bought show no dimensions for the jig.

 

Also my plans call for the keel to be steam bent. What are my other options could i just get the timber for the keel hog peice and apron sawn into thinner portions then laminate

??

 

MY jig

Okay i do have another question regarding to me building my jig. My boat has 2 large bulkheads at stations 4 and stations 5 in the plans. The problem how do i set them up on my jig when my jig will only be 1500 wide at these points the bulkheads will not sit on the jig.
What do you do for a jig. do i cut the jig at these station marks to allow the bulkheads to slip in to the waterline marks or is there something else you normally do.

Any help would be great.

Cheers
Archie

 

Archie, if the blkheads land on a frame just leave the gussets of on the "big" side & install the ply later(you can "dry fit" it in readyness) or if your bulkhead replaces the frame leave the ply level to the top of the deck camber of the deepest bulkhead & set the cross spalls on the other frames to the same height or if you've already built that jig & frames to the drawing shown you could add some gussets with a bulkhead slot to the jig longtitudinals(both sides of each) & then cut the longtitudinals( cut one edge to the line & leave some extra mms for easy insertion to other edge) & yes you can laminate & glue your keel/stem. All the best from Jeff.

 

I think I may just use spalls and use bracing and lift the whole lot up higher, as i havnt built the jig yet it shouldnt matter just yet I was just curious how other people overcame this problem.
Great thing about boat building you kind of learn as you go along haha

can build a house no worries but boats are a little different

Cheers
Archie