Noisy engine 3.0 mercruiser TKS

or buy a old style pump from a engine wrecker/salvage yard assuming its the pump

Only thing is I dont know is it the pump or cam issue?

 

Submarinebob: Unfortunately, I didn't see anything in my pre-purchase research. I wasn't even thinking about engine issues--this GM 3.0 block has been around for decades with no issues. Most of my research was on the boat itself.

MY ISSUE WAS THE FACT THAT MERCURY HAD NO DESIRE TO COVER A $200 REPAIR ON A BRAND NEW BOAT WHEN A KNOWN ISSUE EXISTED. IT WASN'T THE DEALER--I WROTE THE LETTER DIRECTLY TO MERCURY.

SNYIRADY: For my pump conversion, I installed a relay on the main ignition switch, and an oil pressure interlock. Both parts came from Holley. Can you order these online and have them shipped? Everything has to be marine rated--I wouldn't recommend automotive parts in a bilge. As far as the oil pressure interlock, it's not a necessity, but a safety feature. If you're absolutely the only one who will be driving the boat, then you can probably get away with not installing it. Just make sure you realize that if the engine stops while the key is forward, you will continue to dump fuel into the carb (fire hazard). Another thing you can do is tie the electrical interlock into the alarm (if your boat has one). My boat alarms if it stalls. This is accomplished with another oil pressure switch I believe.

Here are the part numbers from Holley:
Order Details

Qty Product Number Description Cost
1 12-810 Fuel Pump Safety Pressure Switch $26.34
1 712-801-1 67 GPH "RED" Electric Fuel Pump $131.94
Shipping & Handling: $0.00
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total: $158.28


Unfortunately, I don't have any pics, and the boat is in winter storage. Nothing to really see anyway--just disconnect the old mechanical fuel pump. Find a machine shop who can make you a flange plate to cover the hole in the side of your engine (just give them the old fuel pump and have them make a blind flange to match the flange on the fuel pump (stainless so it doesn't corrode. Then run your fuel line to the new pump and wire it up! The install was fairly easy--and the engine performance was improved! Response time on acceleration is quicker. Just be sure everything is marine rated.

 

Sounds like your next move is to pull the fuel pump and check for wear on the arm. That and change your oil and look for filings on your magnetic plug. Something else I thought of that tends to make an annoying ticking sound is exhaust manifold leaks, but they tend to occur under load rather than at idle.

Anyway always check the simple stuff first. Mechanics will always aggrandize the problem but having turned all my own wrenches since the day I could pick one up, its not that way at all. Rarely is it anything major. Take your time, you'll figure it out.

Cheers
B