Newick Val Rebuild

I use WEST, never was bothered by the pumps, if it has sat long enough to lose some a series of partial presses until you get a drop fills the pumps up full and you are ready. Amine blush is pretty rare. I'm sure a lot of things work fine, I appreciate the engineering the Gougeons put into their products and am probably too used to them to switch, plus scales are one more thing to get sticky. For big batches weighing makes sense but can be done with any system. I have seen people lose count of pumps haha. Keeping batches the same size in a mixing cup can make recovery easier.

 

I saw the 3 Cheers pic from the ad, the flare of the main hull bow really shows why thin layers were called for in the cold molded version. There is a lot of shape there.

 

I couldn't see the pic on my end, so I deleted it, but yes there is a lot of curvature. I don't remember doing much with amine blush at all when I was boatbuilding in the late 80's and early 90's helping to build this Walter Greene Designed 60' trimaran. We used the Gougeon geared pump to meter the epoxy unless it was a big lamination where we used separate measuring cups for hardener and resin with a dedicated mixer person.

 

Well that must have been a treat! Yeah I only have had a little amine blush if I worked too late outside and the dew came down before full cure . I can still count the occurrences on one hand.

 

Maybe that was the difference on the blush, that we always worked inside or under a cover.

 

Hello Tim,
I like the base from where you will start, thats a real beauty. I hope your boat will not provide you with too many surprises and Ama's and Vaka will be restoreable. I'am a fan of Dick Newick Designs. In the moment I'am working on two new retro designs that catches the design spirit of Dick Newick, but have modern underwater shapes and trim. They will be new interpretations of Tremolino (with Hobie 18 hulls and rig) and Somersault / Outrigger 26 (custom ama and rig).

I'am in the Newick Feeling of lines and structures anyway I would like to help you and design the foredeck, cabin top and cockpit for your 30' Trailerable. The result would'nt look so bulky as your two examples shown in the photos. The foredeck, cabin and cockpit would have the flowing lines of the Somersault trimaran.

Original Somersault 26 and my actual mainhull to give you an impression how your new deck will look like.

Have Fun, Michel

 

Lucky,
I too am a fan of the flowing lines of a Newick and have drawn up some smoother iterations of the boats in the pics and moving the rear crossarm aft for a more secure cockpit. It is a change from Newick's plan that Walter Greene had used.

 

Hello Nueva, I'am a little confused. In the photos the Akas sit on top of the sheer and in plan it is raised. Also in the plan the Ama is way to high above the waterline while in the cross view it is correct. The white line is also questionable. I hope you will make a separate linesplan for the Aka suspension, cabin and cockpit layout. Start with the (hotizontal) wing that forms the forward triangle, the bunk flats and the cockpit seats. Then the Aka/Vaka connections and the vertical cabin walls and cockpit backrest. with a little patience you can form the forward deck in a constant curve ( like your white line but more curve). This way you don't need a convex deck crosswise. The forward eck and cabin decking is last.

In your situation I would keep the Ama position where it is, directly at the back of the cabin, perhaps a little more aft to expand cabin space (reinforcement nessesary) and position the cockpit completely aft, not interrupted or restrictedby the aft ama. This way you have max. cabin length and max. cockpit length (for sleeping in summer night.) Let the ama's dig into the water around 2 to 3 inches when the boat is lightly loaded. This way the boat sails more upright and is faster most of the time (exept under 3 knots true wind). Docking will be easier because the boat is more stable

Transferring the Aka loads from the sheer line, where they are connected now to the upper position, where you want them to have in the future, is no easy task for the structural engineer (as well as position the amas aft). Be aware!!!

Have Fun, Michel

 

Michel,
Thanks for your input, it's always appreciated, hence this thread. As originally designed, yes the akas sit on the sheer which is 450-600 mm off the water keeping the amas approximately 150 mm in the water at all times. Sailing on the boat was very wet and uncomfortable and mostly flat, hardly ever flying an ama. The white line on the plan is white out to erase the deck sheer to the bow that was drawn by somebody in Walter Greene's shop for me in 2002. I am making the cabin wider to increase volume. The aka at the rear of the cabin makes for an uncomfortable entry into the cabin over the raised aka, plus leaves the cockpit exposed to the water on the sides. Moving the rear aka aft creates a more enclosed cockpit, an easier entry into the cabin and a longer mainsheet track. Yes, transferring the load from the akas to the original sheer will need some figuring. I have some ideas, following some designs that have used this setup and am talking to a NA to help, do you have any ideas?
Tim

 

Hello Tim

Which way are the Akas connected to the Vaka? Lashings or bolts? How much do you want to raise the Akas? 100mm?

One idea is to install a sliding hatch. Opposite to a wing deck Aka, that needs structural integrety in the cabin top to hold everything together strongly, your simple cabin top can have a cut out in the rear upper edge. That makes entrance easier.

Have Fun, Michel

 

Lucky,
My akas are attached with stainless steel straps and bolts at the sheers. I'm looking to raise the akas about 225 mm using a plywood saddle made from 4 layers of 9mm glued to the hull side from the main hull sheer to the bottom of the crossarm. I'm still committed to moving the rear crossarm aft to make a more protected cockpit such as in the attached pic.