Newick Val Rebuild

I have 3 Val hulls built around 1982, cold molded with veneer or thin ply and west epoxy, that I am soon embarking on a major rebuild into a usable boat again and am looking for some advice. It is 30'x26' and 2500lbs, demountable with 2 crossarms and a very small cabin, basically a daysailer with cuddy. I need to build a mast, preferably rotating smaller section wing, as the original gougeon wing mast was dropped, damaged and sat outside for 40 years. I need to build new crossarms as they suffered the same fate as the mast. The foredeck and cabintop of the main hull is 75% rotten and will need to be replaced with a larger volume cabin house for more room below. The amas need minor repairs, fairing and repainting. My questions are could I use RAKA epoxy to try and save some money on the rebuild or should I stick with the west system because it's better? Would okoume plywood be adequate for this project to save weight or is meranti preferred because of strength and better rot resistance? In what order should the rebuild progress: main hull, crossarms, amas then mast is what I was thinking? Thanks Hive

 

I'd contact the Newick site and see if somebody will sell you a new plan set. If you don't need to disassemble it might be fun to get plans of the wing aka version to use with your hulls for the cabin volume you are after.
Make sure the ply you use is coated inside and out and you should be fine.
I'd think about finding a used aluminum mast to save time and money. You could still make it rotating.

 

I have fallen out of love for Raka after experiencing some major outgassing and bubbling over new okume. The West System pumps really reduce waste and simplify mixing. No measuring required; generally.

Staying with okume will keep her lighter.

As for a strategy, it depends on your skill level. Based on your queries, you seem to be a novice.

Repairing the amas first is a lower risk endeavor, but not necessarily easier, as sometimes mould making is needed. But the main way to repair is to get the boat dried in so weather doesn’t hurt it anymore. Then you can work on everything else..

post pictures and questions here and be careful to avoid adding weight; making a bigger cabin by much might affect her badly

 

The first 2 images are where I'm starting from and the third and fourth is where I'd like to end up. The cabin will not be much higher than what is already there, but will be squared off to allow more volume below, better sail handling and raising the cockpit and crossarms to make a drier and safer ride.

 

Maybe I've just had bad luck with Meranti but splits and delamination seem much more common partcularly when you are using it to develop shapes, okume overall seems a much better ply to work with. I'd stick with West resins as Fallguy has noted the pumps make mixing even small batches easy.

 

Cav, Thanks for your input about the ply, that's what I was thinking about it. I did think about the wing aka, but would like to be able to move the boat around and trailer home to store and work on it for the off season. I do have the old parts and some of the plans so replication and modifying should be pretty straight forward. I also spoke with Dick Newick about the boat before he passed about some of the mods and he gave his input.
Tim

 

I live near a mill that still makes Marine fir so that is what I often use, I do use meranti on occasion but make sure it is stamped Hydrotek. Okume is great stuff if it stays dry.
Looks like a fun project, enjoy!

 

Okume is fine, but i give it 3 coats of epoxy. I dont use West anymore, the pumps need to be kept "primed", it smells and has amine blush. I went over to another brand with none of these issues and use scales instead.
Saw a Val in Martinique over 30 years ago, I was gobsmacked. Really a boat that has to be seen 3D to appreciate.

 

skaraborgkraft

What is your opinion on the finish (okume + epoxy):

two-component polyurethane or international one up + toplac

 

I personally stay away from 2-pack, as its an ar*e to make small batches for touch ups. I have used it when a customer wants it. I like single pack, International or Epifanes, or if on a budget I have used enamel, though it tends to dull and lose shine after a few years exposure.

 

thank you

 

Thanks for your pro input, what epoxy do you use now? I planned on scaling my epoxy as well to eliminate mistakes due to pump prime. I know what you mean about seeing a Newick in person to appreciate them fully, a Newick winged three cheers is the older sister of my boat built by the same guy.

 

I buy bulk from this outfit in Holland. Mr.Boat epoxy - De epoxy specialist (mrboat.nl)

I wont be dragged into a debate over brands and superiority, in all my testing, the plywood always failed first.

 

Thanks for the quick answer, don't worry, i'm not looking for a debate either, just empirical knowledge since I last was involved in the building of a boat in the early 1990's. I figured some things may have changed since then, haha.

 

I prefer Silvertip from Systems 3. I use West. I have not had blush, but will watch for it more after seeing it reported. Silvertip never blushed in a controlled environment in 300 gallons.