Newby needs to repair hull

Well I would not exactly say I am a newby. I did 2 transoms in the past, that turned out great. I am not a pro though and happily will take advice from those who are experts at this. I understand there are a lot of knuckleheads out there that would tackle this and fail miserably. I do a lot of reading and research. I think it will work fine. As far as gelcoat-I dont need to do it. The bottom already has bottom paint, so it will be super easy to just sand the repair out smooth and recoat the whole bottom-will look as good as new. I also have a delamination in the rear. The engine is out, and that repairwill be done from the inside and outside.

 

Mark my apologies I had you mixed up with a "Friend",understand down here we deal with a lot of this on a regular basis and the Idea is when it leaves the shop the boat is 100% right never to return ,weather it is a private customer or doing work for a manufacturer and the boat is restored to "as sold new".

 

Steve you are so very right about the people we have worked for in the past who have demanded the very best . Steve , i have not mentioned this much before but when we were building boats with AME 4000 and were going into are transition using Epoxy ( shell ) there was a very big learning curve as far as Jell coat goes with epoxy boats and to tell you the truth some of the first 32,s ever made out of Epoxy would leave the shop for a race only to return with half the jell missing on the boat because of a compatibility issue between the two which you all ready know untill we discovered Poly Bond and now or to the date jell is still sprayed in the mold by Pete with very little mills only to receive a custom paint job considering that no two boats are really the same (custom).

 

Pete used to do the spraying as I understand.

 

ha ha ha , yes he does even to this day and wears the same work uniforms as everybody else .

 

Well, I removed the engine, and degreased the engine compartment. I started to grind the inside area, and ground through all the delaminated portions. I actually have 2 areas that need repair. The back is where it scraped the rock, but still got very soft. I opted not to simply cut out the bad area, instead I ground it out. I am left with a very thin shell on the bottom of the v about 4 inches wide, and 36 inches long. I am going to use this as an aid for the mold. There is tons of clearance in this area, so I am going to build up the repair on the inside. Then I am going to grind the thin delaminated exterior skin and apply a few layers of cloth to the bottom. Then fill it, sand and paint. I will post photos soon

 

I have to say, that all the dust really sucks. I had a tyvek suit on, gogles, and a dual cartridge p95 respirator with a fan blowing the dust away from me. If I did this professionally, I guess a fresh air supply would be the way to go.
All wrapped up, and I am still itchy after 2 showers!

 

I was going to originally use west system epoxy, but I changed my mind. I am using US Composites epoxy-they are out of florida. A lot cheaper, and seemed to get good feedback from users.

 

You are right, no need for West.

Let us have pictures.

Richard

 

Mark , west is very pricey and there Pro set is even more.

 

Marinepoxy is cheaper then US Composites and also out of Florida.

 

Par, how good is it really as far as tensil strength and do they offer many ranges of Pot life along with being high temp because some resins i use offer a pot life of 165 minutes @72%............. just curious and would you shoot me a link or website so i can take a look at there prices ?

 

They have a slow, medium and fast hardener offering. The slow is slightly slower then 206. If you need 165 minutes of pot life, then this isn't the goo for you.

Epoxy formulators are everywhere, there are about 6 within driving distance of me. Getting a custom formulation is as easy as talking to one of their chemists and getting a batch suited to your needs.

Marepoxy has similar physical properties as System Three base resin. There slow is as close to non-blushing as it gets, unless you like to laminate in the rain.

 

more progress

I have to get my camera out tonite-usually it is not with me when I am working-too dusty.
Anyway, I grinded the front bottom area of hull. I bought a 4.5 inch grinder that runs at 10k rpm or so. Harbor freight 20 bucks-works great. And I used the norton 40 grit disks that are petalled-they are just so so.
Then the bargain of a lifetime! The 5 dollar harbor freight steel disc with carbide-it is 36 grit. Wow! That thing removes glass like no tomorrow. You can grind your whole boat down with this, and it is still sharp enough to take on another one! It had no problem taking down 1/2 inh thick edges to a sharp edge and chamfering it out.
WIll post photos soon.

 

I second your coments !!!