New Teak Deck Caulking: Tape or No Tape?

Just laying my teak over marine ply deck on a 73' wooden schooner, new build. The teak is 3/8" x 3" strips, laid over Sika 290-DC bedding compound. We're doing the rough sanding now to even out any irregularities and will begin caulking the 1/4" wide gaps. I've seen many people use painters tape to mask the teak then peel it up while the caulk is still wet. Problem with that is that it's a lot of tape! Miles of it, or maybe a little less. Has anyone ever just carefully caulked without tape, minimizing "spillover" as much as possible, then just sanded the extra off with the last sanding steps? Sika is strangely silent on this approach. Any experience or ideas? Also, Sika 290-DC or Sika 291 for the caulking joints?
Thanks, Scott

 

I hope it was a typing error (290DC for bedding). 298 is the correct bedding compound used in conjuction with 290DC primer or if not available 215 primer.
It is a lot of work to tape the caulking seams so why bother, carefully apply the primer and bond breaker tape into the seams, then apply the 290DC into the seams so that it stands slightly proud of the deck level. Couple of days later just run the excess off with a sharp chisel and sand the deck.
Sika is a great product but complicated to use, has limited shelf life and is not so user friendly. Have a look at a new age product that I am currently using for a new teak deck http://www.fixtech.com.au/index.php
DeckFlex MSP100 for the caulking used in conjunction with the PR 10 primer.
DeckFix MSP300 for the bedding compound. Interestingly I am using the DeckFix MSP300 for the caulking as it is grey in colour and so adds an interesting and new concept to caulking, looks great.
If you would like more assistance with this product or with your decking requirements just let me know.
Kind regards
Gypsie
Aussie Marine
Singapore
+65 9234 2984

 

If you're in a hurry, then tape the seams, with a light sanding to finish off. If you have more time, fill the seams proud, wait a month (curing time for polyurethane) then sand smooth.

Taped seams have to be over filled, because the poly will shrink a little. Knowing how much is experience with the goo. You can mash it good into the seams with a putty knife, with care to not pack in air bubbles (instantly noticeable) or use a caulking gun. If you leveled the seam with a knife, it will shrink below the top of the decking in the middle of the seam. This is usually fixed when the deck is sanded smooth.

 

I'm with those guys! Tape the seams! I've tried both methods and taping works best, otherwise the Sika (I used 290) gets in all the minute groves and takes heaps of sanding to get out. Also tape just sands off easily taking the sika with it. Warm the Sika up in warm water to make it go in easier - although that's not going to be a problem in Thailand is it!!!

 

Answering my own question here (now that my teak decks are done):
We taped, and have a beautiful deck to show for it. I used blue painters' tape and stripped the tape immediately after caulking. I tried leaving it on until the caulking hardened and that was simply not as easy to remove the tape. It still sanded fine, but I had lots of little bits of blue tape to sand off too.
I've decided for myself that the answer to my original question "Tape or no tape" lies in how much sanding you would have had to do anyway. If you have rough planking finish or many uneven planks, then don't tape. It's lots of extra work and in the end it won't have made any difference since you had all that sanding to do anyway. BUT, if you are doing a repair or have very well machined planks with an even underlayer deck then taping will reduce your sanding effort, as you'll just be sanding down deep enough to clean up the edges of the caulk joint.
Scott

 

Re corking --tape it .

New decking dont tape. The reason being you have to sand down a new deck any way.

The tape will ball up and be a pain with an orbital sander. A belt sander is better.