new project

Discussion in 'Projects & Proposals' started by garrybull, Sep 11, 2013.

  1. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    now got 2 layers of csm on.

    i should have my combi mat delivered some time tomorrow so on wednesday i can start putting that on and get it built up to thickness.

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  2. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
    Posts: 508
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    i have started putting the combi mat on today.

    doing 2 layers in one go.

    transom is done and down both sides.

    the overlaps have come out quite well and not much of a lump there so im happy with that.

    hoping to get the bottoms done tomorrow and the tunnel on friday and then it can have a layer of 450 all over with grey pigment in the resin.

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  3. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
    Posts: 508
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    both hull bottoms have now got 2 layers of combi mat on and just the tunnel to do tomorrow then i can cover the whole lot with 1.5oz csm with grey pigment in the resin.

    i'll be glad when the hull is up to thickness so i can start on the transom ply and main forward bulkhead.

    i'll have to leave the bulkhead loose so that i can glass the topsides on otherwise if i glass it in i won't be able to access under the foredeck easily.

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  4. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    tunnel now has 2 layers of combi mat on.

    just need to give it all a quick sand down to get rid of any little spikey bits and it can have its final layer of mat with grey pigment in the resin.

    as it stands the hull weighs around 242kg and with the final layer it should come in at around 290kg so not too bad.

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  5. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    You work pretty rapidly but still do a quality job. Do you have helpers?

    Doing such careful work, I can see you don't have much prep to do to be ready for the next lamination. Attention to detail saves much time and imparts the almost invisible little things that add up to quality.

    I think I mentioned before about instead of sanding, sharp paint scrapers work really well and raise no dust in the air. I like these kind with the 4 blades, you just loosen the knob and rotate or flip the blade for a sharp edge. You can use them lightly to knock off nubs and splinters, or with the knob, you can really put some pressure on them and do some serious leveling quickly, especially with a somewhat green laminate. They are easy to sharpen, easy to keep clean while working and don't clog up like sand paper. You can use them almost as soon as the laminate starts gelling, hours and hours before you are able to sand. Also, the stuff you scrape up stays loose on the surface and vacuums right up, whereas with sandpaper, loose dust gets ground in and sticks and doesn't easily vacuum up.

    Btw, it's August now and time to change your calenders, please.

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  6. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member


    lol i forgot to change the calender today as i was really busy.

    will change it for you tomorrow ok :D

    i am doing all this work on my own and it can be a pain sometimes as i have to keep getting in and out to get more resin.

    i do have a mate who comes over as and when he can to help but thats not very often as he's busy working.

    i cut up all the mat etc before i start and fill some buckets with resin but i leave the buckets on the floor out of the mould so i don't knock them over.

    the only spikey bits i got to sand off are from the ends of the combi mat where ive cut them with scissors.

    there are a few nasty spikes sticking up which if you put your hand on would hurt.

    it won't take me long to get rid of them.

    i never thought about using scrapers like you've shown so i will have to invest in one and give it a try and see how i get on with it.
     
  7. SamSam
    Joined: Feb 2005
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    Location: Coastal Georgia

    SamSam Senior Member

    They have replaceable blades and it works best if you ease up or round off the corners on the blade a bit so they don't dig in and gouge stuff. They work perfect on the cut ends you're talking about and they're handy as back scratchers too.
     
  8. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    got the final layer of mat on today.

    looks really good now.

    i can now start marking out where the ribs are going and fit the ply in the transom.

    the main forward bulkhead can't be fitted until the gunnels are made and fitted so i'll get to cut to shape and glass up both sides ready for it to be fitted once gunnels are made.

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  9. jorgepease
    Joined: Feb 2012
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    Location: Florida

    jorgepease Senior Member

    Awesome!! The only experience I have with boat building is infusion with epoxy so I don't understand the process where you can keep adding layers without a peel ply … I'm guessing that with the ester resins the chemical bond is still happening??

    Regardless Looks Great!!!
     
  10. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    ive never done infusion and only know hand lay up.

    most smallish boats in the UK are built by hand lay up.

    the chemical bond will take a few days to fully cure and it will be really strong.

    also ive never used peel ply. wouldn't even know how to use it.

    i was taught to do it all by hand like i have just built this hull and i will stick to that method until i give it all up.
     
  11. jorgepease
    Joined: Feb 2012
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    Location: Florida

    jorgepease Senior Member

    With epoxy, I guess you have a much shorter time to recoat or else you lose the chemical bond, I think it's hours as in maybe up to 12, never tried it so thus the peel ply. The thing I like about infusion is no fumes but I would still like to know how to do hand layup, maybe one day I will pick it up. Have a great day, the boat is looking amazing!
     
  12. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    hand lay up is easy mate.

    i know people who do up to 4 layers of combi mat in one go in a 11 mtr mould.

    on my own i'll do 2 layers at most in one go.

    the resin ive been using has low styrene fumes so its not too bad to work with when in the mould.

    i have a small fan running to help get rid of any fumes but its more to keep me cool than anything.
     
  13. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    got 2 sheets of 18mm ply this morning and cut them to shape for the transom.

    will get them bonded in tomorrow and hopefully covered with some combi mat to stiffen it up.

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  14. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    transom is now all glassed in.

    i have put 2 layers of csm over the ply and will put on a layer of combi tomorrow which should help spread the load when the pod bolts are fitted.

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  15. garrybull
    Joined: Nov 2010
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    Location: portsmouth england

    garrybull Senior Member

    i have fitted the rear deck shelf today.

    im now ready to start fitting some ribs and bulkheads but im waiting on some polyethylene foam to turn up.

    i don't really want to do the ribs with timber but if i have too then i will.

    almost out of lloyds approved marine resin now so will have to order a new drum as and when i can afford it.

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