new boatbuilder

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by sean-nós, May 14, 2010.

  1. Tahoerover
    Joined: Jul 2011
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    Tahoerover Junior Member

    Why a four blade? Use a three or even a two blade.
     
  2. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    sean-nós Senior Member

    It came with the donor boat a 16 foot ski boat so if it worked for that it should work for mine plus I don't want to spend more money if I don't need to, I won't be racing this boat just messing about and spreading the sound of a V8 :D
     
  3. BATAAN
    Joined: Apr 2010
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    BATAAN Senior Member

    Wow that looks like fun.
     
  4. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    sean-nós Senior Member

    Just a quick update, the engine has had it's first test run :D



    And as we had a few good days of weather I went ahead with the fiberglassing just doing one side at a time I was able to give it 4 coats of resin with a 3 hour gap between each one.

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    I kept all the overlaps below what I think will be the waterline where it will be painted. now let the sanding begin :rolleyes:
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    1 person likes this.
  5. Ike
    Joined: Apr 2006
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    Ike Senior Member

    Wow. Looks good. Keep posting.
     
  6. hoytedow
    Joined: Sep 2009
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    hoytedow Old Woodbutcher

    You are making great progress.
     
  7. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    Location: Dublin,Ireland

    sean-nós Senior Member

    First coat of primer I will sand this down with 600 paper and do two more coats and sand again.

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    And first coat of paint "roll and tipped" I will do another 3 or 4 coats with a light sanding in between then on the last coat I will sand it with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, wet and then rubbing compound.

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  8. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    Location: Dublin,Ireland

    sean-nós Senior Member

    I had to make up a new strut suit my angle.

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    Just have to sink it a bit more and fiberglass the base and the prop tube that will hold the stuffing box.

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    I always knew it would be tight to fit the rudder but I just might get away with it using a plate on it also I think I will recess it into the hull so it sits flush.
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  9. TeakGuyFL
    Joined: Jun 2010
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    TeakGuyFL Junior Member

    Paint looks KILLER! Nice Job!
     
  10. Collin
    Joined: Nov 2011
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    Location: Olympia, WA

    Collin Senior Member

    Yes, it looks very well done.
     
  11. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    sean-nós Senior Member

    Cheers guy's I still have to do another 3-4 coats after I fiberglass in the prop tube strut base and rudder hole then sand it with 1000-1500 wet paper then rubbing compound and wax to get a gelcoat look finish.:D
     
  12. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    sean-nós Senior Member

    I sold my donor boat shell :D so started to rebuild the trailer with new bolts,bearings,brakes,cables,tow hitch and so on won't be long now till the flip:D

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  13. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Hmmm....I Never found the need to use 600 with paint ? Normally course paper...220 for primer, then 320 to 400 for finish coats. Working in the proper temp with the proper viscosity paint gives glasslike roll and brush . Carefull you dont develope an adhesion problem with such fine paper.
     
  14. sean-nós
    Joined: May 2010
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    sean-nós Senior Member

    Your right my mistake it was 200 paper on the primer :D
     

  15. michael pierzga
    Joined: Dec 2008
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Ahh...sounds better.

    Occasionally I use very fine paper or scotch bright pads on touch up work. Last week I removed a piece of masking tape from a previous small touch up and the finish coat came off with the tape. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr..............................................

    Beware of very fine paper,the tooth may not be sufficient .
     
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