New anchoring system thoughts

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by Stumble, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. Stumble
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    Stumble Senior Member

    Cat,

    This whole thing is pretty much premised on having an electric windlass, but they don't really have to be that big. The one I was working with is the lewmar Pro-fish 1000, that runs around $1200. It has a max pull of 1000lbs, which means a working load of 333lbs. So the maximum anchor size plus rhode it should lift at a time is pretty much in excess of anything we have talked about so far.

    Now if you go to an all chain rhode, that number changes, since it is very likely you could have 300lbs of chain out at a time.
     
  2. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    Thanks for the data point on the windlass.

    This is a very impressive idea. I think for my particular application, I'll way oversize the anchor, like you are thinking, then add a little bit of chain for any possible abrasion issues (20ft?).

    This could be a substantial overall weight savings for a catamaran.
     
  3. Stumble
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    Stumble Senior Member

    Cat,

    If you are thinking about going this route, I would still carry a normal setup with all chain, and a normal sized anchor. Even if you leave it in the lazarette, at least it will be available. My concern is there could be all kinds of unforeseen issues with this system that we haven't touched on, and after you loose an anchor when you really need it is a bad time to learn what we missed. I would gradually increase my reliance on this system, it jump in with both feet.
     
  4. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    You know, the vast majority of boats are actually set up this way anyway, right? Only difference is they don't have the larger anchor.

    After spending about 2190 nights at anchor since 2004, I'll dive right in and give it a try. ;). Any unforeseen issues and I can always go back to my usual setup: 100' chain spliced to 100' rope rode with catamaran bridle.

    I do appreciate your concern, though. I know it is well intended, but you are really on to something here in terms of a workable solution for reducing anchor tackle weight and increasing holding power at the same time. I will use standard anchor rope rode, though, just because I'm used to it.

    About the only issues will be increased weight of anchor lifting, chafe potential, more wandering of the boat anchored in fair weather and possible anchor rode stink - though chain tends to pick up way more junk as you reel it in.
     
  5. murdomack
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    murdomack New Member

    At breakout, where the maximum forces will happen, you will be lifting the weight of the rode for the depth of water plus your anchor and whatever forces that are required to break it out. In your plan, you intend to lessen the weight of the rode and increase the weight of the anchor. Your bigger anchor will be harder to break out, so, all in all, I would expect you to require a more powerful winch with your plan than with standard anchor and chain.

    You will only benefit if you anchor in very deep water.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2012
  6. Stumble
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    Stumble Senior Member

    Murdomack,

    Typical practice is to motor over the anchor and break it out with the motor, not the windlass. Even assuming poor practice though by the time the scope is reduced to 1:1 most of the holding power of the anchor is eliminated, and you just have the dead weight of the anchor, which is far below the working load limit of the windlass.
     
  7. murdomack
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    murdomack New Member

    OK. So you will reduce your scope and breakout using your engine.
    Forces should always be controlled, for safety reasons. I'd feel a lot safer pulling the anchor out with the windlass. If it doesn't happen then you can resecure the rope/chain to a cleat/stopper strong point, clear the deck and use the boats engine to get some extra force. To me this is an unsafe practise.
    Large anchor handling vessels have massive winches, new ones are about 600 tonnes, that monitor the loads at all times when they are breaking out anchors. Uncontrolled forces can flip a boat over quite easily.
     
  8. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Lay 100 meters of chain then drag anchor off the shelf into 100 meters of water, with your ground tackle hanging straight down , and your windlass will be doing some heavy lifting.
    I frequently snag discarded fishing trawls, unmarked disused underwater cables, sunken fishing skiffs, war debris...your windlass will be doing some heavy lifting.

    When a charter boat drifts onto you in the thunderstorm and its charter captain is ashore in the bar or too incompetent to drop his chain and evacuate , you will be stern into the wind, motoring hard astern , literally towing the charter captains rig with your ground tackle and your windlass will be doing some heavy lifting.

    You may wish that each anchor retrieval is gentle like what the book taught you , but many times you will be hauling the boat with your winch under difficult conditions.. Ive broken chains, collapsed stem rollers and destroyed anchor winches.

    Always over spec and choose the fastest..meters per min . anchor winch option.
     
  9. Frosty

    Frosty Previous Member

    Quite right.
     
  10. Stumble
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    Stumble Senior Member

    Guys exactly what windlass do you think I specked out here? The one I assumed is recommended for up to 40' boats.
     
  11. Milehog
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    Milehog Clever Quip

    Definitely have a trip line at the ready.
     
  12. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    I'd say that's a must always. I typically use a small, bright orange float with a little anchor symbol on it tied to the trip line.

    I had one guy come by in a kayak one day and start pulling my anchor up.

    I went out and said, "Hey!!" He got all scared and said he thought it was "free." I said, no... it's not free. You're pulling up my anchor!

    Trip lines (and floats) are very handy though. I see them as a must. Aside form pulling the anchor free of whatever, they help show newbies where your anchor is so they don't end up dropping theirs right on top of yours as they pull into the anchorage.
     
  13. michael pierzga
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    michael pierzga Senior Member

    Anchor buoys are a bad habit invented by amateurs. They present a hazard to other vessels at night and take up to much harbour space .

    When the wind changes and my boat drifts over top an anchor buoy, I take a knife and cut it off.

    When anchoring in rocky ground were there is a danger of fouling your anchor , learn how to rig a breakout lashing on the anchor.

    This is why anchors have two shakle points.
     
  14. CatBuilder

    CatBuilder Previous Member

    You cut anything I own and I'll take a knife and cut something you own. Probably your inflatable.

    Amateurs bend anchors, lose anchors and generally are a disaster in the anchorage. Sounds like you're a "dock" guy to me.
     

  15. Milehog
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    Milehog Clever Quip

    michael, a time and a place for everything. Your anchorages probably tend to be more crowded than mine. Here you may be the only boat in a bay littered with old logging cables.
    As far as vandalizing others safety equipment, bad form. Would it be so hard to request the owner of the bouy do something about it?
     
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