Need help wiring twin helm boat

Jim Prouty

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Lake of the Ozarks MO
We are in the process of rewiring our Chris Craft. I've rewired boats in the past but this is the first dual helm boat.
I'm having problems with the switches that are on both helms (start/run/stop, nav/ank & bilge).
does anyone have wiring diagrams for these?
 
It depends on how you want to wire it. Ideally you can use 3 way switches so everything can be turned on and off from both stations. Otherwise, you can have a master switch to change the controls from top or bottom.
 
I'll be at the shop this evening, we did a fair bit of stuff with carling 3 way switches. Most the standard body switches are on-off-on with the off in the middle care has to be taken to not hit that position or the 3 way is dead.

New wire marine makes an on-on with led backlights, but they are 43 without a rocker making them the most expensive carling body I've ever bought. Granted they have indpended led for label back lighting. We eneded up doing on-off-on in the wheel house and on-on at the second station, as we had 8 switch circuits and the 3 way on-off-on were less than half the price.

You will have to segregate nav and anchor light circuits for the 3 way switches. If you don't want led backlight on on 3 ways are relatively cheap. I'll dig for switches and the wiring diagram this evening.
 
The new dash panel is from New Wire with the backlit rockers. Thanks for the help.
 
It depends on how you want to wire it. Ideally you can use 3 way switches so everything can be turned on and off from both stations. Otherwise, you can have a master switch to change the controls from top or bottom.
everything can be turned on and off from both stations.
Generally, the bilge pump stays connected to the battery even if the main battery switches are turned off, to ensure that if the boat is moored and it rains or begins to take on water, the bilge pumps will pump until the battery dies. You can install a low voltage alarm so that if the voltage drops below a preset value, ie the bilge pump begins to run the battery down, the alarm will go off. Of course, you would wire the bilge pump to
ensure that you can manually, when you are on board, flip the switch in case the level switch does not engage.
Alternatively, you can wire in a 3 position rocker that offers Auto, Manual and Off but you need to ensure that the Auto side of the switch is engaged when you leave the boat in the water.
 
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Hello, here cause I found this thread on an online search. Looking for info on wiring horn and blower from both helms. Previous owner made a mess of the wires behind (boat was a mess generally, been working through it), but it makes it hard to track what's what. Only lower helm switches are working now for these items. I think I'm going to rewire these. If anyone has information or even better a diagram, as mentioned above, that'd be appreciated.
Thanks!
 
I have twin motors 2 stations. Upper station to start run an engine has a pull out push in old style marine switch for igntion on - off and a push button switch for starter.

It is wired so that starter will not crank over unless ignition is on, so somebody cannot accidently crank engine unless ignition is on.

To use that on upper helm. the lower helm keys have to be turned to ignition on.

I also have ignition buzzers wired to oil pressure switch, so ignition on, no oil pressure the buzzers buzz. Annoying but useful for no oil pressure warning and it does tell you you have ignition power on.

So typically I start engines down below. If I go up top, I can shut engines off by push pull switch and also crank them over,
 
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