Need Advice To Repair Wooden Boat

I'm a cowboy in Colorado that owns a 14' wooden boat that leaks in the bow. It's kept at 10,000 feet elevation (strong UV, no humidity and water is never warmer than 55 degrees) and trailered less than a mile sometimes only 200 yards to fish fresh water lakes on my property. It's taken out of the water and stored between fishing trips. I've read this highly informative site and am now very confused...Detco, Sikaflex, 2 part polysulfides, 1 part polyurethane, 2 part silicone, epoxies and on and on. My hats off to gonzo and par. I sense a lifetime of experience. Sorry I can't post pictures but I'll do the best I can to describe the issues.

This is a completely open row boat with 3 mahogany seats. A fat, stable, canoe really. The boat is built out of 1 1/2" strips (I'd guess spruce but not sure) that run end to end not side to side. I can't tell if they're glued. On top of these strips, on the interior of the boat, are wooden ribs layed over the strips every 6", running side to side and fastened with glue. The entire interior is varnished. The outside has been fiberglassed. I DIDN'T DO IT. I've sanded most of the bottom paint off and other than 2 small (one is 4" long the other is 10" long) hairline cracks the fiberglass is in great shape. the source of the leak is along the bow of the keel. A strip of wood has been placed along the keel and where it rises on the outside of the bow it leaks. I've dug out the caulk used to seal the seam on both sides of this strip of wood. The caulk was dry and brittle and reminded me of glazing compound falling out of an old window. The fiberglass comes within a 1/2" of this seam but does not extend under this strip of wood covering the bow. This 1/2" strip of exposed wood that appeared after removing the caulk and sanding shows signs of having been wet but is still strong wood.

QUESTIONS:

1-What caulk or epoxy should be used to seal this bow seam back up?
2-How should I treat the small amount of exposed wood on the bow prior to recaulking and repainting? Soak it with antifreeze or Git Rot for the small amount of dry rot, let it dry, soak in some marine epoxy, let it dry, then paint?
3-How should I address the hairline cracks in the fiberglass? Brush some marine epoxy over these, re-sand and paint?
4-What should I prime the bottom with and what should I paint it with? I talked to a marine paint dealer and he said to just get a good enamel porch (exterior) paint.

Please be gentle with this virgin and let me know details such as: "Wipe down the caulk with acetone before applying primer or it won't adhere." etc. Thanks, kevin

 

Lets fix the cracks first, it's easy. Use a sander to clean up the cracks and surrounding area. Remove any loose bits of plastic along the edges of the scratches. Clean the area with denatured alcohol, but only just before (about 10 minutes) you are ready to apply goo. Mix up some regular epoxy. The major brands all are very good. Brush this liquid into the cracks and surrounding area. You don't need much, just wet the area(s). Now mix up some more epoxy, but add thickener like wood flour or cab-o-sil, so you have a heavy cream consistency. Smear this into the cracks with a putty knife. To save yourself some sanding time, cover this area with clear plastic painter's drop cloth material and toss some weight on top of it, like a small sand bag. This will smash the goo flat, into the scratches and leave it with a very nice, smooth finish, which will require little finish sanding (once you've gotten some practice at it). When it's hardened (at least a day at 70 degrees) you can sand the area smooth, just like doing body work on a car. Paint and call it done.

I'm not sure I completely understand the bow issue you have, but what I do understand is you have bare wood that's seen some water. Dry this area using heaters or keep it covered until nature does it for you. The wood has to be very dry (around 12% moisture content) and since you don't likely have a moisture meter, you'll just have to wait it out, until it clearly is very dry. Mix up some epoxy, say three or four of tablespoons full (enough to cover the area a few times with a brush), mix with hardener, then toss in the microwave for 10 seconds on high. You want it about 90 to 120 degrees. If it feels warm, but not hot then you're there. Too hot and it will kick off before you can apply it, not hot enough, then it will not penetrate as well as it can. While still warm (work fast, it'll cure very quickly this way) brush it on the raw wood. Brush it on repeatedly or until you run out. You want this hot goo to soak into the wood as best as it can. The wood should be shiny after it cures. If it's not, then repeat the procedure, until it is. Now the raw wood is sealed.

Any divots, gashes or missing pieces of wood can be built up with thickened epoxy, similar to filling the cracks, if the surface is vertical, you'll want the thickened mixture to be the feel of peanut butter so it doesn't sag or run out off the surface.

Log onto WWW.WestSystem.com and look at their "how to" section. The methods and techniques seen there are the same for all epoxy work. You can down load product descriptions, methods, techniques and several "how to" manuals. They'll even mail you some for free.

You get what you pay for with paints for the most part. Cheap house or porch paint will not hold up as well as some of the fancy stuff. I would prime the repaired areas with "EasyPoxy primer" because it's compatible with the goo you'll be smearing around there. Check with the epoxy manufacture you elect to go with, for their paint recommendations.

It sounds like a simple repair, maybe behind a "false stem" or rub strip. Bolt or screw all the stuff you had to remove, to get at the repair areas, back down and use a good marine caulking like 3M 101, under each piece so water can't get back in there again. Don't use 3M 5200, or you'll never get the parts back apart again (without tearing up something) if the need should arise. Good Luck . . .

 

Par,

I'm so thankful and grateful that you replied. After reading 100 or so of your email replies to other wooden boat owners with problems I know you have a boatload of experience. After receiving your response I spoke with a representative at West System. I have the boat in my barn and it stays 60-70 degrees with outside temperatures now at a high of 25 degrees during the day. They recommended 105 resin, 206A slow hardener, a 300 mini pump set and 406 cloatel filler since this will set at or above 60 degrees. Do you concur? Thanks again for all the help and the instructions that even my 6th grade education can understand. kevin

 

Bingo, they're good folks, though I don't like the cost of their products. 406 is good stuff, but you may want to add some 403 (microfibers) to make it thicker easier. I'd also use some 410 (microballons) as a fairing putty (with a touch of 406 in to stiffen it up). Mixing up the different fillers is a bit of black magic, but experience brings it all within reach, pretty quickly. Down load WestSystem's "How To" manuals and it will give you a basic idea of how to play with the fillers.

Also, get one of those radiator looking things, that is actually an oil filled space heater (electric). Warm up the area with the heater (don't use open flames) for 24 hours, then keep the area warm for 24 hours after you've done the deeds. I use a tarp to keep the heat close to the boat and not waste it on the rest of the barn or the great outdoors. 206 will give you a fair amount of screwing up, I mean working time with the goo at 70 degrees (about 30 minutes). Work in small batches (a few pumps at a time), you can always mix more if you're short, but if it kicks off in the pot, you're pretty much screwed and have to toss the batch out. Practice on the bottom scratches first, thy're probably out of sight and you can ignore how bad it looks when you're sitting in the boat catching fish.

The fillers just thicken up the goo so it will stay stuck to vertical surfaces and they offer mechanical properties to enhance the strength of the epoxy. 406, is a ***** to sand smooth (REAL HARD STUFF) you don't want to sand up globs of this dried goo, stuck all over things you don't want it. Work neat, clean and use the stuff in the repair. If you're of breeding age, don't eat, chew, suck on, breath, rub into your eyes or do lines of filler material, epoxy or dry epoxy sanding dust, unless you like the idea of three headed babies. If you're like me and past prime breeding stock, then you got to die some how, right? Read the label, they're not kidding, the stuffs not good for you. Personally, I like the idea that it kills lab rats at an alarming rate, I never like the nasty little things anyway (my dogs do though). Good Luck . . .

 

Par,

Thanks again. I think I get it. Your details are greatly appreciated. Sure is a lot of good information on West Systems site about using epoxy for a novice. Great advice. Two last questions and I'll leave you alone......
1-How do I know if epoxy "kicks off in the pot?"
2-You told me to seat the fittings and hardware with 3M 101 not 3M 5200. I think I remember seeing your replies on other threads that 3M 5200 shouldn't be used below water but is it ok to use 3M 101 on the parts that will be below water? kevin

 

3M 5200, used on wood, that will get soaked (water logged) will release, usually taking some chunks of wood with it. It dries much harder then you would think from a sealant and lacks the flexibility to stay with the wood as moisture content increases. It just pulls off in a big, long, rubbery string. I peeled enough of it out of garboard seams to understand it's limitations. On other materials it's great stuff.

3M 101 is a polysulfide (unlike the polyurethane in 5200) and stays flexible and attached to well soaked wood. It doesn't have the grip of 5200, but that's good for the most part, as it can be removed without tearing out bits of wood in the process. There are other polysulfides that can work, but I'm very familiar with the 3M products. You shouldn't rely on a sealant to keep the wooden pieces attached to the boat. An adhesive (like epoxy) can be trusted, but a rubbery goo really doesn't hold anything, it just keeps closely spaced parts sealed. Fasteners and/or structural adhesives is the ticket for underwater work.

When we say "the goo kicks off in the pot" it means the epoxy is in it's second stage of cure (curing starts the moment it's mixed). The first stage is when it's workable and still liquid. In the second stage, it heats up and gets progressively harder. I've mixed epoxy in 100 degree weather where I couldn't get it out of the mixing tub (pot) before it was to hard to apply. I've switched to a proprietary mixture for the hot season and have no issues. My supper slow formulation will have a 35 - 40 minute pot life in 95 - 100 degree weather, which is better then WestSystem 209 hardener (about 10 - 15 minute at 100 degrees) The only draw back is it will not kick unless the temperature is over 75 for 24 hours, which is easy to have from April to September in Florida. In the cooler months (like now) I'll use a standard slow hardener (WestSystem 206 equivalent) which nets me about a 30 - 40 minute window of working time.

If it "kicks off in the pot" you'll know, trust me . . .

 

Par,

Thanks again for taking all the time to provide detailed answers to my questions. I've started the epoxy process on the bottom of the boat where screw-ups are less visible. My first batch that was microwaved for 10 seconds and "kicked off" after about 10 minutes of working time. I made too large of a batch. I made subsequent batches smaller and had no problem. A valuable lesson in using this liquid gold. Per your advice, I'm using west systems 403, 406 and 410 fillers and learning that good epoxy work is an art. I've sealed the wooden keel protector/rudder with epoxy and then used filler to thicken the epoxy and sealed the edges where the wood meets the fiberglass to provide a little more strength and create a waterproof barrier. I've done the same thing with a wooden "splash rail?" attached to the fiberglassed hull at approximately the waterline. Looks great hope it works.

The boatbuilder installed an aluminum strip 3/4" X 1/8" X the entire length of the boat, with screws, on the wooden keel protector/rudder to protect the wood from the rollers on the boat trailer. I'm considering using the 3M 101 product between this aluminum strip and the wood keel protector (that has now been sealed with westsystems epoxy) and rescrewing the aluminum strip back down. Is this an appropriate application for 3M 101? kevin

 

101 is ideal for that strip (rub guard).

 

Thanks Par. Project is progressing slowly. Bottom is almost ready for paint. I'm tired of sanding and the inside will require the most sanding because I anticipate putting at least 4 coats of varnish (Z spar?) on the interior and I've read that you should sand in between each coat. I'm glad spring is far off. kevin

 

Winter is a painful time for boat builders. The goos don't dry, it's cold as your ex-wife's heart and dark comes around quick in standard time. Being in sunny Florida, I can build year 'round. I was on a trial sail today, testing out a repair I just finished. It wasn't particularly pleasant compared to what we're used to, but 68 and soft drizzle isn't too bad.

Most of the cold weather builders resort to heaters of some sort. I strongly recommend you use ones that don't light off lingering fumes. I use the oil filled electric jobs, rigging tarps over the work if necessary. In colder climates, you just have to work inside something that can be heated.

With experience, you can "catch" epoxy at a stage of cure, where you can knock down the bulk of the semi hardened goo, without all the sanding. My tool of choice is the scraper. I also use forms and blocks of plastic wrapped wood to level the surface and minimize sanding (which always sucks). Epoxy is pretty soft after it kicks off and becomes tack free. This "green" stage is the time you want to try knocking down the high spots. If you wait until the next day, it will be too hard and you have to grind it down. It's a timing thing and only practice with the goo and your working environment can tell you when.

Keep butting your head at it, you'll get her done and the fish will be most sorry for it . . .