Sole repair materials and steps

Discussion in 'Boat Design' started by FisherFanatic, Sep 1, 2007.

  1. FisherFanatic
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: San luis obispo, CA

    FisherFanatic Floor help

    trying to put new floor in my classic bassboat. just purchased for great price but need to redo floor. If anyone could help me with specific materials/procedure id appreciate it. Thank you
     

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  2. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If your sole is soft, you should also have a close look at the sole support structure, stringers, stern knees and especially the transom. To quickly check the transom, you can examine the mounting area for deformation and puckering around the lower portion of the bracket (the part that grabs the transom). Grab the lower leg of the outboard and lift up, (by hand) with the engine locked in the down position. This will torque the transom a little. If you see any movement in the transom (look closly at the mounting bolts and upper clamps as you lift the engine against it's stop), it's got issues too and not an uncommon one at that, which is also a subject that has much coverage on this site. Another quick check it to pull out the mounting bolts and stick your finger in the holes. If you find wet, punky, gooy wood, you'll need to address this.
     
  3. FisherFanatic
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: San luis obispo, CA

    FisherFanatic Floor help

    Thanks par, You are by far the most helpful person on this site. the sole is not sagging/soft anywhere. theres a little exposed wood, but thats about it. Do i basically do a layer of expoxy on the sole then sand? and also when putting in my marine plywood do i build a support structure underneath it? or lay it straight down on the hollow sole then waterproof?
     
  4. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If your sole doesn't need to be replaced, you're doing a cosmetic repair and really only need to seal the exposed areas. This would be a simple 'glass job in the areas you need it, fair and finish as desired. I don't understand the additional plywood you mentioned, if your sole is still solid. In any case, you don't need anything under the plywood you put down. Just bond a well epoxy sealed piece down, with thickened epoxy, using screws or better yet weights, to hold it in contact with the old sole, until the goo cures. Remove the screws after cure and fill the holes with more epoxy. The surface of the new sole can be sheathed with fabric then treated to whatever you have in mind. I'd stay away from carpet or vinyl floor coverings as they just trap moisture between them and the sole, which is bound to cause problems latter. A textured paint job is about the cheapest finish you can apply and if you use something other then sand as the texture, it can be removed and redone easily.
     
  5. FisherFanatic
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: San luis obispo, CA

    FisherFanatic Floor help

    What size epoxy do u recommend, this really is my first project. And do u know of any cheaper substitutes to epoxy that i could still use with fiberglass cloth? Im only trying to get this boat out for the rest of summer and perhaps next summer also. Just dont want to destroy it the first few times out. Also i have a quick ? Can i skip the plywood part and just glass the hell out of the entire bottom including stringer? or is this a ridiculous idea?
     
  6. PAR
    Joined: Nov 2003
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    Location: Eustis, FL

    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    In regard to your sole, you could use polyester resin, rather then epoxy. It doesn't stick as well, but for a few seasons of use could be the ticket for you. If the sole is solid, you don't need additional plywood over it.

    If you're just trying to clean up and seal the sole, you could just grind (sand it) it back to good material and put several layers of paint down. This would be the cheapest. Next up the cost list would be a light 'glass sheathing using polyester resin. Of course this will also need to be painted. An epoxy coated 'glass sheathing will cost a little more, but last a fair amount longer. This will too, need paint.

    I'm not sure what you mean about "Glass the hell out of the entire bottom . . ." but I wouldn't suggest it for a novice. Getting a hull smooth can be a real chore for a pro and is especially difficult for the back yard builder.

    If your bottom is solid, then paint it up to look nice, splash the old girl and have fun. If your bottom has questionable spots then repair those areas, fair it smooth and paint. Don't 'glass any more then you need to. Trust me, it's not a real pleasant job, particularly if you've limited experience working with wonder goo's and 'glass fabrics.

    As far as "size of epoxy", well, it's sold in pints, quarts, gallons, 5 gallons and 55 gallon drums. For small repairs a quart can go a long way.

    Any of the major epoxy brands will provide good service for your needs. In warm weather, you'll need a slow or extra slow hardener, so it doesn't get hard on you as you're trying to apply it. I recommend all beginners use slow or extra slow stuff at first, so they can have the working time necessary to get the task completed. If you skin the sole with a fabric, then 6 or 8 ounce cloth will be fine for your needs.

    http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/index.htm This is a link to West System brand epoxy users manual. Read through it so you get an idea how to mix, handle, apply and generally work with the stuff.
     

  7. FisherFanatic
    Joined: Sep 2007
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    Location: San luis obispo, CA

    FisherFanatic Floor help

    Thanks par as always. I have a feeling u are raising a premier boater. I appreciate everything!
     
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