Multiple leeboars or one enough?

I was thinking to use a steerboard starboard side with a welded stainless bracket that could go in the oarlock receiver block rivited to the gun wale. I could pivot it that way. But someone told me the best was rudder on the stern with leeboards. What are your thoughts and if I go route 2 then do I need 2 leeboards. This aluminum boat is very light and only 11ft. It's just a rowboat now.

 

Hi Cpt, what use are you putting it to? You only need to use a leeboard if you intend to sail it; and it doesn't look like a sail boat. If rowing or motoring, then forget the leeboard. If sailing, you only need one, tethered about the middle of the boat, and swap sides with it after tacking. A rudder on the stern at centre is best, unless fitting an outboard motor; then place the rudder where the propeller doesn't chew it out when turning motor or rudder. What type of boating do you intend?

 

She will be the trifecta! RN it is row and electric motor and balanced lug sail 50 square ft. Arrives tomorrow. Once I have the sail then I'll be able to build mast to appropriate hight. I'm trying to see if I can use a steerboard or if rudder in the rear and swappable leeboard is how I have to go. The vikings used steerboards why don't we anymore? Are they doo doo?

 

I never heard of steerboards. The vikings use steering oars that were close to a hung rudder. A leeboard is placed close to the center of lateral effort of the boat. That means it will be ineffective as a rudder.

 

It was on the "steerboard" side. Idk if because of the keel in addition to the steerboard that counteracted leeward movement, but it was a rudder and was used to counteract leeward movement to a degree as they didn't use daggerboard or leeboards. The steerboard was secured with a thick rope hinge through the hull and secured at the top where the rudder handle attached with leather so it would break the leather if it hit an obstacle. They also used dipping lug sails traveling windward back to Norway.
I wanted to see if I could experiment with this steerboard ancient tech on this dingy because one item is better that two. Also they only had one of these. That brings me to my original question of... do I need two leeboards, do I have to switch one leeboard to the other side when tacking, or can I just use a steerboard.
Fun fact starboard comes from steerboard that was on the right side of the biat.

 

That is a steering oar in the photo. It will not help with leeway going upwind. Also, the modern requirements for going to windward are very different from what they were 1200 years ago. I don't know where you got the idea that vikings changed the type of sail for going back home, or that the wind was always from the stern going out and on the nose coming back.

 

Maybe I should be more clear...sorry. they used dipping lug both ways as far as my research. Also my point is they had predominantly westward winds up there and they had to come back so that meant a whole lot of windward sailing. So let's just all agree that those boats where awesome and tacked and they didn't have daggerboards or leeboards. I'm just trying to have some fun sailing a dinghy on lake of the Ozarks.
Can I use 1 leeboard without swapping it in winds below 7 knots, or do I need to swap it every turn?
Would it be better to have 2 leeboards and raise and lower every turn?
Or should I have 2 leeboards and leave them both in place?

 

And I do plan on using a rudder center of stern. Forget about the steering oar.

 

If they were getting back from Western Europe, westerly winds would be by the stern.

If you are not sailing anything resembling a Viking ship, then it is something very different. A dinghy makes more sense with a daggerboard or a centerboard. Leeboards can be used, and the windward one can be left alone. What kind of dinghy is it?

 

Pics at the top

 

11ft aluminum v with pretty flat bottom from like the 60s to 80s who knows

 

It is a powerboat. This type of hull will not do well upwind, regardless of what boards you put.

 

One

No

No

 

Your boat is not a vee bottom, but is well rounded in cross sections, so although it will not set any records, it will sail.
Leeboardswill be clumsy, but definitely a necessity.
The outboard motor is a good safety feature, as you may need help sailing home if upwind!

 

I'm not sure who or when it was made. It is 11ft riveted aluminum row/motorboat pictured on my profile pic and at the top of this post. It has a v bow and transitions to flat bottom for the back half of the hull with a riveted keel along the bottom and another right above the water line near the chine. I have no idea how it will behave sailing. That is why I'm here. To learn as much as I can about how to fit this with the hardware in a way that still keeps it car topable. And also easy to sail. I just came up with the mechanism for the leeboards (yes two one on each side. I am convinced) to raise and lower them when needed and for transport/ loading that slide over the gunnel and clamp so they can be adjusted fore and aft until I find a sweet spot near the coe of the sail.