Moving the New Boat out of the shed

Discussion in 'Boatbuilding' started by snowbirder, Jun 21, 2015.

  1. snowbirder

    snowbirder Previous Member

    We had 8 people today trying to push my new boat out of the boat shed.

    Didn't go well.

    It's on steel pipe rollers on plywood, but the blocks weren't smooth enough to roll.

    I even tied my 3/4" line to a car and smoked the tires trying to get it to move. No luck. Bad blocks rolling on the steel pipes.

    So... I guess I have to find a hydraulic boat trailer to get under it and move it.

    Was very reassuring to know the boat is so strong.

    Simply looped the 3/4" through a couple cockpit drains in the forward cockpit and tied a couple bowlines on bights around thge car frame. Sadly, it smoked the tires and the boat didn't budge.
     
  2. Charlyipad
    Joined: May 2014
    Posts: 218
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    Location: St Simons is ga

    Charlyipad Senior Member

    I would try putting down OSB sheets on top of the concrete with the rollers atop that. Larger dia. the rollers,the better.

    congrats on the move! big day.

    edit oops just read again about the plywood. try larger rollers?

    The guy up in alaska (James Dory) backed a truck up under his bridge deck and blocked/jacked the whole boat up high enough to clear the ground. If you could get a low boy trailer up underneath you should be good to go.
     
  3. Steve W
    Joined: Jul 2004
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    Location: Duluth, Minnesota

    Steve W Senior Member

    Yep, bigger rollers, we moved a Cherubini 44 out of a temporary shed on 4" diameter wood rollers on blacktop with a Jeep. Steel cradle though. We have a company in a nearby town that makes matchsticks and they end up with all these perfect 4" cores left over and sell them for firewood, made nice rollers.

    Steve.
     
  4. waikikin
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Australia

    waikikin Senior Member

    Support via underwing similar to above is usually most reliable on cats, just gotta make sure the connective bulkheads are positioned well to support frame(RHS steel is good!) & interfaced/padded with foam or similar over plenty of area, some biased tie downs are a good idea too, some simple square threaded scaffold jacks(lubed) can be incorperated for lift off or brakets attached to hydrolic jacks. For moving sometimes less people is better, the use of rollers, slides, turfers connected to chocked vehicle is more controlled & easily stopped, repositioned etc than the group dynamic & less bodies at risk.

    Jeff.
     
  5. snowbirder

    snowbirder Previous Member

    Before I put a bunch of time into doing it myself, does anyone know of a hydraulic boat trailer outfit in the Saint Augustine area??

    Would even pay someone to drive from Georgia or Melbourne or something.

    I'd rather just pay someone to come out, back under, lift and pull it out of the building in 15 minutes.

    Don't have any time to spare. Have money to spare.

    It's a 75 foot move... just out of the building.
     
  6. snowbirder

    snowbirder Previous Member

    I also have no vehicle anymore (sold very quickly), so that's an issue too.
     
  7. TeddyDiver
    Joined: Dec 2007
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    Location: Finland/Norway

    TeddyDiver Gollywobbler

    Pulleys, hydraulic cylinders, jacks etc..
     
  8. snowbirder

    snowbirder Previous Member

    Hired a hydraulic trailer. $300. Took 30 minutes. :)
     
  9. waikikin
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Australia

    waikikin Senior Member

    Glad it went well & safely:)
    J.
     

  10. snowbirder

    snowbirder Previous Member

    Thank you.

    I was not even a little nervous, thankfully. This boat is pretty strong. We have jacked it onto blocks using 2 bottle jacks, not even on a bulkhead. Thanks to a robust keel lamination, it doesn't matter where you lift it. No lift points on the keels.

    I did, however, have all 4 tiny, 0.3 meter pads from the hydraulic trailer positioned on the main strength beam and aft beam for a bridge deck lift. No visible deflection.
     
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