55' Lewis and Clark Keelboat Replica Maintenance

As a Board member of the Lewis & Clark Exploratory Center, we built a 55' keelboat of white oak. Now it is time for serious maintenance. It is no longer in the water but resides in a field exposed to hot sun in Virginia. Varnish peals off the outside of the hull after one season and we are applying boiled linseed oil to some areas of the floor that have not been preserves as of yet. Under the floor in the hull (also not preserved), it is damp and rotting wood is a concern. What are some thought on the best way to preserve this.

 

Stockholm tar/linseed oil mix 2:1, monoethyleneglycol if it's not going to soak..

 

Linseed oil is a poor preservative. It actually promotes fungus growth. Use a modern mildewcide. First kill all the spores with bleach

 

Thanks for your help. If not linseed oil, then what after the bleach? What about monoethyleneglycol? Would it be a good idea to use varnish at all?

 

It is the reason why you have to use boiled linseed oil with pine tar and turpentine. Half the mixture is turpentine. Pour the mixture very hot, almost boiling. By the gallon, don't be stingy.
You can also start with kerosene treatment following by the mixture.

Daniel

 

Understand I am an idiot and I need it spelled out. What are you supposed to do with the kerosene and what is its purpose? Is the linseed oil/pine tar/turpentine ratio 50/25/25? What is the purpose of the Pine tar?
I very much appreciate this help.
Is varnish a "no-go" (I don't like the peeling effect anyway)

 

No you are not an idiot, you certainly knows things I don't know, so I will be the idiot
The kerosen is a form of wood preservation.
The pine tar is a wood protection
The boiled linseed oil is a way to keep the oil cell to be oiled and well nourrish
The turpentine is a way to conduct the linseed oil inside the wood.
Start with 50% of turpentine, then let say 20% of pine tar and 30% linseed oil.
But you don't have to be precise, do as you go. We are not taliking epoxy here.
When you heat the mixture be very carefull, boil it but don't put it on fire.
I hope it help.
Of course first clean carefully the bilge without any soap. Then pass a coat of kerosene and let it dry. Then start the mixture.
Be very patient it take a lot of time to treat wood in a classical way.
Hope it help
Daniel

 

It seems almost a lost art. I would have a hard time finding that kind of knowledge any other place on the www.

 

Thank You Everyone For Your Help. I Am Going To Attempt To Make A Mix Of Everyone's Advice And Hope For The Best. Stop By Charlottesville, Va And See Our Boat.
Much Respect! Diana

 

Hire a surveyor or shpwright to inspect the vessel. It is a cheap investment rather than creating more damage by amateurish repairs.

 

As I understood in his first post, he is one of the builder, or at least member of the board which make this historic boat re-building possible.
I will not treat him as an amateur, he had the courage to takle this boat, it was a great and difficult job.
It will be nice to recognise that.
They run as I understood a tight budget, and a surveyor competant for period vessel is not easy to find.

Daniel

 

That's exactly why it's mixed with pine tar..
Using (too much) boiled linseed oil in the mix or varnishing creates more work (scraping) when it's time to renew the process..

 

Building a boat requires less knowledge than preserving one. A surveyor or shipwright will give them advice that may save the boat. From the description it is returning to Mother Earth very quickly.

 

You are a surveyor, I'm a boatwright and Daniel the NA so what's..
Anyway you are right about the description.. seems obvious that the deck has dried out (presuming there's a deck) in the sunshine and leaked every rain below which is in danger to rot without adequate ventilation..
So caulk the deck, open hatches, install a blower to keep it dry, and don't spare with preservatives.. If the decks are a bit flat in some places tilt the boat a bit

 

I am a shipwright too. And that seems like good advice.