Starting to wire permanently

Starting to wire permanently


my initial dry runs, I simply slap some wiring circuits together to get up and functional example bilge pump .


Each circuit has a fuse and neg. bus bar connected only to neg. of battery.


So I want more secure permanent electrical wiring.


Heres my progress will post behind dash location of pos/neg bus bars.

when boat is unattended anchorage (moor) battery is dissconnected however
automatic bilge is connected directly to battery.

the only stuff I have permanent electrical wiring are
warning
tachometer
fuel level of primary fuel cell


my windshield wiper motor has a bunch of wires so I'm a tad confussed.
any tips is appreciated
TB

 

The typical arrangement is a common negative buss bar and a fuse panel. The fuse panel carries a hot lead and distributes this to each switch or device, passing through a fuse or breaker first. The ground is carried to any convenient location, to get back to the negative side. It depends on which wiper motor you have but they usually have 4 or 5 wires, each providing some level of control, such as a couple of speeds, maybe an intermittent setting, park and a ground, if it's not "chassis" ground. Can you post an image of the motor?

 

I'll take a closeup of wiper there appear to be 5+ wires

 

Here. 2 red wires 1 black,1 beige total 4 wiper wires.

the thin wire is my tablets radio antenna.

I can't find the wiper control knob. this would prior to 555 intermitant wiper control.

thanks TB

 

Check for continuity with the case and one of the wires. When you find it, hook this up to ground. Use a test lead to the battery hot and touch each of the other wires to it one at a time. Just kiss the contact, just in case, but things should be pretty obvious when you do. The reds are likely the two speeds (too slow and not fast enough) and the beige (likely use to be yellow) is probably the park routine.

 

This looks like my wiper motor on my boat (except only one speed, so only one red) which doesn't work. I simply haven't gotten around to replacing it. I rarely take it out in the rain anyway If yours is wired is anywhere near normal color codes, the black is ground (negative) the reds are positive, Beige most likely what PAR said.

 

excellent advice as usalle
I'm installing the VHS and wiring ray marine directly to fuse block.

please suggest the wiper control knob w/ link
thanks TB

 

I am not in a position to choose to decide not to go because of say less than 50% persip. I go when I have a chance.


the saltwater is the problem it completely covers the windshield.plan a VHS. an soon a real radio/mp3 player probably a Clairion round type because the tablet /bluetooth speaker is unrelieable.

 

Been relugging the big 0AWG power/ground 12V cables at exposed battery end.

once I establish power I'll test windshield wiper.


Will have negative buss (located near 12V +) bar for NAV,Anchor,interia all LED.

Also ground Ray marine sounder/GPS, VHS,12VDC socket,USB charger all these will be short wires. I have about 8’ of 0AWG from battery to bus bar.


All grounds are at battery even though the engine is though hull and electricalley grounded the hull, I do not use hull as ground,


I’m anxious to try my liquid tape under regular 3m electrical tape.


New (el cheapo sometimes if cleaned flushed will be fine) 750GPH auto bilge pump as primary controlled w/ 3way switch.


Secondary bilge pump expensive Rule 1500GPH controlled on/off switch.


Hopfully I’ll never turn either on.


Planning livewell screened rawwater pickup tube, already mounted LW pump it will need wiring. The wash down will be coming soon.


I ordered 200’ of 16AWG tinned marine wire will proballey need twice that.
thanks TB

 

mounted VHS

 

Tested windshield wipers.

w/ 12VDC neg connected to the case and the black wire

I Applied 12 VDC to the red wiper wires the wiper rolled down half way then just stopped.


The wipers original wires (are still connected under the roof paneling and though the windshield so they are tucked up out of easily access) have not been identified and I haven’t traced them out yet.


I may just disconnect these original wires then retest the wiper.

Any tips here is appreciated.



Edit:

I highly recommended liquid tape. it is a major method of first layer of insulation.

TB

 

Anytime I use heat shrink; I always overcoat and seal the hs with liquid tape.

I don't understand using liquid first. The tape acts as stress relief and the liquid as sealer, imo.

 

ok thats good advice now how about the windshield wipers?

 

update on windshield wipers I removed the stationary screw to wipers bracket so I'm able to rotate wiper thus move blade manually.
apparently the wiper engine is rotten?

next rewire NAVs /bilge #2 /moiler fuel level/12VDC,USB ports ect.

will be connecting my new switch panel order of hierarchy.
secondary bilge remember the primary is a controlled w/ a 3way switch
live well.LW.washdown pump.WD
rest LED lighting

I'm completing my raw water pickup tube so I would like to have my installed though splashwell 800GPH https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N7I4TKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1live well LW well pump to connect to both LW and WD,

thanks for any good advice.TB

 

Here's my LEDs interia wiring plan.
Basically one wire that is being tapped off of powering all LEDs.


Like the aft. LED won’t be on w/out the cabins LED is also on,

But can be dimmed.


I also have a couple underwater LEDs and red and yellow stripes for trailering side/tail lights. Plan to glue to hull. already have these side/tail lights on trailer.


NAV anchor are both separate circuits.

my switchs have LED in lever.
Where can I get the clear waterproth switch bottie? I could use rubber gloves fingertips laced to switch.

edit: any exposed metal of switchs will be covered w/ liquid tape

TB