Micro liveabord cruiser

I'm thinking a direct drive of the power drill to the rear wheel would be better and easier than having cogs.

But I still have yet figured out a way to fix the drill to the wheel and still allow for steering. Any ideas?

It would be easier to have a fixed wheel on the stern for the drive wheel and steering from the front, but the rudder is already rigged for steering from the cock pit, so I want to work out a way of direct drive rear wheel from the cordless dril with battery pack, and still allow steering......

 

There's a fair amount of discussion about cordless drill power on the ' efficient electric boat' thread: Search Results for Query: Cordless drill | Boat Design Net https://www.boatdesign.net/content-search/3871918/?q=Cordless+drill&t=post&o=date&c[thread]=27996

 

Also check out the Makita cordless canoe challenge at the Beale park boat show:

THE WATER CRAFT MAKITA CORDLESS CANOE CHALLENGE | Beale Park Boat & Outdoor Show http://www.bealeparkboatandoutdoorshow.co.uk/the-water-craft-makita-cordless-canoe-challenge/

Lots of video of this on you tube.

 

Battery power is exactly the wrong propulsion unit for a boat like this, because of the weight and size of the batteries needed.

From the point of view of price, longevity and weight - electric will just not be a viable solution.

 

Sail is obviously te best, then rowing if there is no wing, but to have the ability of short quick little hurts with the drill will be very useful from time to time.

 

Thanks, I've only just started, these are such amazing machines, here's a view in the galley of another micro liveaboard cruiser, they're gonna bake an apple pie for the Captain . . .

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A cordless drill and a solar panel to charge it is so useful, what other things can be good ideas for micro cruising?

Maybe a little wind turbine, the small ones are cheap enough, and one of these bio lite stoves, you can charge your batteries while cooking up some food.

CampStove 2 https://www.bioliteenergy.com/products/campstove-2

You can always find sticks around rivers and lakes, or canals. So free fuel, to charge your batteries of your cordless drill and smart phone for gps. Also charge the battery on your handheld vhf.

There is certainly no room for water tanks, so one or two of these atmospheric water generators would be great as well as a solar still if the weather permits, but these water generators can create drinking water out of thin air.

"Self-filling" biking bottle pulls water out of thin air https://www.treehugger.com/gadgets/fontus-solar-powered-bike-gadget-creates-water-out-of-air.html

I like to keep things simple, for toilet just bucket and chuck it. It's what I useually do even on larger boats with heads.

Some compact fishing and trapping kits on board can provide some extra food on your adventures.

Any other good ideas for micro crusing?

 

I'm wondering which anchor is the lightest weight and most effective?

Some of these folding grappling hooks seem to save weight and space but would they hold you in a wind and strong tide?

I like the fortress folding anchor, Fortress Lightweight Aluminium Anchor 1 8 Kilos https://marinestore.co.uk/Fortress_Lightweight_Aluminium_Anchor_13_1_Kilos.html

 

One should remember the possibilities when having a large super powerful cordless drill with multiple battery packs aboard, so best use the mast and maybe also the boom as extension(s) to drive a much lighter spiral anchor solid into and out of the ground . . .

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Bow anchor shown above, and stern anchor below . . .

 

I have a biolite. Its a good stove but I seriously wouldnt hold you breath o the charging...

 

Found this one

 

The famous "Chine Runners" do not provide the upwind lift. What they do do is help set up a weather helm, so the rudder can provide the upwind lift. If you look carefully at the profile of this design, you will probably notice that the rig is somewhat aft of where it would normally be. Though the chine runners are unique, the concept behind them is not. It has been used for centuries. The Northumberland coble is a good example. It has an exaggerated fore foot and a hogged keel after it. The purpose of these features is to insure the bow always faces the surf. Once it is rowed bow first, through the surf, into deep enough water, the short, deep, rudder is shipped and the sail is set.

The ML designs use similar principles, but this time to get out of having to use a board of some kind, be it a centerboard, lee board, or dagger board.

The idea is to eliminate one appendage while maintaining decent sailing qualities.

The stubby rig serves three purposes:

1.) to insure all the spars will fit in the boat.
2.) to keep the CA of the rig as low as possible, while using just one sail, and
3.) to allow for quick and easy reefing. (Each turn of the reefing drum takes in a bigger fraction of the SA than it would if the rig were taller)

 

I have three suggestions:

1.) make it long and narrow, so it will be easier to row or paddle. It will also have a faster sailing speed, even with a reduced rig,
2.) make it half decked, so it will be easy and convenient to set up a boom tent. Any kind of a house structure is going to make handling any lee board more difficult, as well as doing the same for paddling or rowing, and
3.) keep the rig as short as possible, so it is convenient to set up and take down, even after the boat is afloat.

Attached is a drawing of one of my designs, which I believe meets these three suggestions.

It could easily be modified to have a flat cockpit sole for sleeping.

 

Love that design, yes she would be better in the water than the Gorfnik.

But I'm looking for something all round, amphibious and comfortable to sleep in.

I've started building the Gorfnik and will have permanant solid ply wheels either side with and peddle bar going through the middle. Very simple. And a solid ply wheel for rudder on the stern so no fussy messing about taking wheels off and back on when coming in and out of the water

 

Pssst. "rwatson" is a battery bigot. Don't listen to him.