Metal Centerboard Question

Discussion in 'Wooden Boat Building and Restoration' started by OrcaSea, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. OrcaSea
    Joined: Oct 2014
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    Location: Arlington, Wa

    OrcaSea Senior Member

    The stainless centerboard that came on my 16' restoration is not per drawing and undersized.

    Quotes on 3/16" CR steel 24" X 54" is about $100. I have a limited budget so stainless (at $280) is way out of budget, especially as I do not have the tooling to work with stainless.

    This is a little daysailer that will see occasional use, be trailered and never left in the water, so my question is: will sand blasted, primed and enamel (or epoxy) paint be okay for this application? (I realize scratches will rust). Or will powder-coating be more appropriate as a protective finish (I am leaning away from this since the paint would be easier to touch up)? (the original '58 design uses painted CR steel).

    I would appreciate experienced advice.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. messabout
    Joined: Jan 2006
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    Location: Lakeland Fl USA

    messabout Senior Member

    Many a small boat used and still uses 1010 or 1020 steel for the board. Many one design classes also. Stainless is fine but that is gilding the lilly for a trailered boat that will not stay in the water over long periods.

    That steel thing is going to weigh 69 pounds. (three sixteenth steel plate weighs 7.65 pounds per square foot. ) If you have not already built the centerboard case, you might consider using a wooden board that is about one inch thick and is given some section shape. The steel board will provide a little bit of righting moment but not enough to matter much at low angles of heel. A shaped board, the wooden one, will be a little bit more efficient when going to windward. If you plan on hitting some rocks with the board or grounding it a lot, then the wooden one will be happier with a quarter inch steel rod imbedded at the leading edge.
     
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  3. OrcaSea
    Joined: Oct 2014
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    Location: Arlington, Wa

    OrcaSea Senior Member

    I've been away for a while, so I hadn't heard the news.

    Paul (PAR) helped me from the very beginning of my restoration - at first a little amused that someone would take on such a basket case, and then, as i showed persistence, he was more like 'Okay, if you're gonna do this thing...' and then a library of information & advice followed.

    I was wondering when Paul would speak up and offer his usual generous & accurate advice, so I looked to see where he was and... Having recently lost my Dad I was very saddened to hear of his passing. It's a huge loss for this group. Very sad.
     
  4. The Q
    Joined: Feb 2014
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    Location: Norfolk, UK

    The Q Senior Member

    Galvanised would be a better treatment to steel, my centreplate was galvanised, and after using in extremely salty water several times and then being sat out side for almost 20 years there is no rust.. It's what I'm having done to my new keel...
     
  5. OrcaSea
    Joined: Oct 2014
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    Location: Arlington, Wa

    OrcaSea Senior Member

    Do you have a rough idea of what galvanizing costs, Q? I'm sure it would be a good plan of action if the costs are reasonable. And you do not paint galvanized steel, if i remember correctly...?
     
  6. The Q
    Joined: Feb 2014
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    Location: Norfolk, UK

    The Q Senior Member

    You don't need to paint galvanised steel, but it can be done with the right priming..

    My costs of galvanizing will Not be relevant to you as I'm on a different continent , but last time I had any done a while ago, was to a garden gate 4ft tall 3 foot wide, with a lot of surface area due to the many bars. That cost about £20
     
  7. gonzo
    Joined: Aug 2002
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    Location: Milwaukee, WI

    gonzo Senior Member

    If the centerboard trunk is sized properly, it won't have a lot of slack. Therefore, a wooden centerboard in out of the question; it will be too thin. If you can live with the rust stains and weeping under the boat, a 1020 steel board is fine.
     
  8. Barry
    Joined: Mar 2002
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    Barry Senior Member

    If length is an issue, just weld on another piece of stainless to the end of what you have. Metal cost would be small, and the welding might take an hour. Perhaps someone specializing in
    marine work might have some SS as almost scrap, and may be able to do the welding.
    You quoted 100 bucks for steel but you have to add in some costs for proper painting or powder coat expense and ongoing cost for touch up of a new steel keel.
    So comparing $100 to $280 is not quite right. Perhaps for $150 you can do the SS weld on process and be done with it
     

  9. Howlandwoodworks
    Joined: Sep 2018
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    Location: Columbia MO

    Howlandwoodworks John Howland

    I have had a 1954 Hot Molded Mahogany 14' Jet One Design Class for 15 years. It is steel and has had no problems and no rust. I didn't do the original primer or first topcoats. I think I have painted it twice with exterior poly urethane paint. It has a slot cut at the pivot point so you can take the blade out without removing the pivot bolt. It is a trailered boat and is on the water 5 weekends a year. Here is a article that shows the slot at pivot point and how it works.
    Get Your Centerboard Vertical https://www.jet14.com/get-your-centerboard-vertical
    The original Jet 14 centerboard design did not allow the board to go to a fully vertical position when lowered. This impacts boat balance between the Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) or pivot point and the Center of Effort (CE) on the sails. This imbalance can cause reduced pointing ability and lee helm.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2019
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